Concrete floor repair is essential in the upkeep of your home, patio or garage. Patching a hole while it is small will help prevent future damage.

Your floor must be clean before you begin working. Remove all dirt and loose material. If the hole is tapered you will need to remove the taper in order for your patch to be strong.

An adhesive needs to be applied before the concrete filler. Use a paint brush to apply the adhesive, then slowly fill the hole with the concrete filler. The filler should be mixed according to package directions. Do not make more filler than you will use in 20 minutes. If your hole is more than 1/4 of an inch deep you will need to apply the filler in layers. Let each layer dry before you add a new one. Use a trowel to compact the filler and then smooth the surface. Remove any excess filler.

Once you are satisfied with your patch job cover you need to cover the area with plastic. Place an old garbage bag over the area and weigh it down. Leave the plastic in place for three or four days.




Whether you are making changes to an existing glass-tiled area or starting a new installation project, it may be necessary to drill holes through the glass tiles to accommodate new fixtures or pipes. Although this may sound difficult, the process can be completed if you are willing to patiently work on the project.

Things You Will Need

  • Masking tape
  • Permanent marker
  • Drill
  • Diamond-encrusted carbide bit
  • Spray bottle with water
  • Scrap piece of MDF board (medium density fiberboard)
  • Plumber’s putty

Installed Tile
Tear off two pieces of masking tape and adhere the pieces to the surface of the tile in an “X” pattern over the area where you plan to drill a hole. This helps to keep the drill bit from wandering off the mark when drilling. Make a reference mark where you want to drill.

Attach the correct size diamond-encrusted carbide bit to your drill. If you plan to anchor a fixture to the tile, use a bit that is 1/8-inch larger than the anchoring screws. This extra space will prevent stress from being transferred from the fixture through the anchor and to the glass tile.

Position the tip of the drill bit over the mark. Drill at a slow speed with constant pressure. Keep the drill bit perpendicular to the tile to avoid chipping. Occasionally spray a mist of water around the drill bit to keep it lubricated. Drill to the desired depth.

Uninstalled Tile
Mark back of the glass tile where you plan to drill a hole. Place the tile on a scrap piece of MDF board with the backside facing up. Align the drill bit with the reference mark and drill a small pilot hole. Flip the tile over.

Take a ball of plumber’s putty and knead it into a ½-inch-diameter, 10-inch long roll. Join the ends of the putty to make a circle and place it around the area where you will be drilling. Press the circle of putty onto the tile to form a seal. This acts as a temporary dam to hold water while you are drilling. Fill the circle with water.

Align the tip of the drill bit with pilot hole and hold the drill perpendicular to the tile. Using a slow speed, gently apply constant pressure. Work at a slow pace and continue drilling until you have gone through the tile.

To drill larger holes to accommodate pipes, use a diamond coring bit.

Protect your eyes with safety glasses.

This client who lives in Filton had been informed by the previous owner of his property that there was a Quarry tiled floor in the Kitchen but it had been covered up with stone effect Vinyl flooring. Keen to have it removed and have the original Quarry tiles brought back to life we were contacted to see if it could be done.

I visited the property to survey the floor and work out a plan for the restoration. The lino was heavily stuck in place with about 5mm of adhesive so I could see this was going to be no easy restoration. It would be necessary to remove, the floor, adhesive compound and cement beneath it.

Lino Covered Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor Before Restoration in Filton Lino Covered Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor Before Restoration in Filton

I discussed the project with the client the project, explaining it was difficult to ascertain how long it would take but anticipated it would be around three days. The process would involve stripping off the Vinyl tiles, removing the adhesive, deep cleaning the Quarry tiles and the apply a sealer to protect them. The client agreed my quote and we arranged a convenient date to return to make a start.

Stripping Stone Effect Vinyl from a Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor

After removing the kickboards from underneath, the kitchen units, and taping up the surrounding areas to protect them, I set about restoring the floor. I used a variety of different methods to remove the adhesive compound and cement but mainly hand tools and hard labour! After three long days we had managed to remove the Vinyl and one once all adhesive was removed it was starting to look like a Quarry tiled floor. It was actually quite rewarding to see the Quarry tiles emerge as we progressed.

Lino Covered Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor During Restoration in Filton Lino Covered Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor During Restoration in Filton

Once the Quarry tiled floor was fully exposed, I applied Tile Doctor Acid Gel which was worked in using a large buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The soil was rinsed off with water and the waste extracted with a wet vacuum. I repeated this procedure until I was satisfied the floor was as clear of old adhesives and residue and as clean as possible. Actually, we had uncovered a really nice-looking floor, which considering the covering was generally in good condition. The floor was left for a few days to ensure it was totally dry, ready for the sealing process.

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor

We used a lot of water during the cleaning process, so I left the floor to try out for two days before returning to apply the sealer. I had chosen to use Tile Doctor Colour Grow for the sealer; it leaves a matt finish whilst intensifying the natural colours in the tile. It works by occupying the pores in the tile thus preventing dirt from becoming trapped resulting in durable protection. It also allows the surface to breathe which is important on a floor of this age. We applied 2 coats to the tiles allowing each to dry before applying the next, the lovely colours of the floor were now enhanced.

Lino Covered Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor After Restoration in Filton Lino Covered Quarry Tiled Kitchen Floor After Restoration in Filton

Our client was amazed at the results and so happy they were finally rid of the old lino which was passed its best. For aftercare I recommended they should use Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is designed for cleaning sealed tile and stone.


Source: Quarry Tile Restoration Service in Filton, Gloucester

I was recently asked to survey an unusual stone floor at a house in in Harrogate comprising of Slate inlaid with Granite. The client advised that it had not been cleaned properly for 20 years and wanted it renovating! It was now definitely overdue a deep clean and professional attention. Fortunately, having worked on these floors for many years I knew I could make a substantial impact and transform its appearance. Fossilized slate is a beautiful stone when cleaned and sealed correctly.

 Slate and Granite Kitchen Floor Before Cleaning Harrogate

The owner confessed they had actually been sealing the floor every two years but without a deep clean first, so they were effectively sealing in the dirt each time. I discussed with them the process I would use to clean and re-seal the floor and we agreed a price to carry to out the work.

Cleaning Slate and Granite Tiled Kitchen Floor

To remove the layers of old sealer and dirt used a set of Tile Doctor Diamond Burnishing pads. The pads are attached to a rotary floor machine starting with the coarse 400-grit pad which was lubricated with a dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go to help strip the floor of dirt and layers of sealer. After rinsing and extracting the soil I worked through the different grades of pads in sequence finishing with the 1500-grit and this time using just water for lubrication.

A set of diamond handheld burnishing blocks were then used to clean up the edges and corners where the large 17” pads struggle to reach. This ensures all areas are treated and free of dirt and old sealer.

The floor was then rinsed and extracted again to remove the remaining soil. I find a wet vacuum is an invaluable tool for this. The floor was then left to dry out overnight ready for sealing the next day.

Sealing a Granite and Slate Tiled Kitchen Floor

I returned the next day to seal the floor, first checking with a damp meter that the floor was dry, and the moisture reading was below the acceptable level. These results were fine, so I had a green light to continue and seal the stone.

The customer wanted a shine on the floor so rather than apply a satin sealer which I felt wouldn’t adhere to the stone properly I decided to polish the floor further with a the last of the four burnishing pads which is a very fine 3000-grit pad. You don’t need to use a lot of water with this last pad just a small amount sprayed onto the floor using a technique we refer to as a ‘Spray Burnish’.

To seal the floor, two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow were applied. This is an impregnating matt sealer which intensifies the natural colours of this beautiful stone and provides long lasting durable protection.

 Slate and Granite Kitchen Floor After Cleaning Harrogate

Even I was impressed with the finished result but more importantly the client was over the moon. To keep the floor looking its best I recommended they use Tile Doctor Stone Soap which is pH neutral. You should always read the label in detail when choosing a floor cleaning product as many are too strong and not recommended for sealed stone surfaces as they will prematurely erode the sealer.


Source: Stone Cleaning and Polishing Service in North Yorkshire

Earlier this year I went to visit a property in Canterbury to look at restoring a Terracotta tiled floor. The floor was approximately 11m2 and made from the larger Saltillo type Terracotta tiles. It had been in situ for some time and being located in the hallway it was subject to the heavy foot traffic of a busy household.

Having taken a closer look at the Terracotta tiles I could see there were many high spots due to poor installation by the original tiler, on top of that it had then been sealed with linseed oil followed by a wax paste. Wax was traditionally used to seal Terracotta floors, but it scratches easily and can lead to a thick build-up. Since the introduction of modern sealers designed for the job, we don’t recommend wax treatments anymore.

Saltillo Terracotta Hallway Floor Before Renovation Canterbury Saltillo Terracotta Hallway Floor Before Renovation Canterbury

We discussed the process to renovate the floor, explaining that the best course of action would be to use milling pads to level the surface of the tiles which would improve the finish and remove the built-up wax. Once prepared in this way the floor would be sealed to protect it going forward. They were happy with my quotation and we agreed a date to return and complete the work.

Renovating a Terracotta Tiled Hallway Floor

The use of Milling pads can generate a lot of slurry to our first task was to protect the surrounding areas using protective sheeting. The area was quite tight to work in, so we used the smaller six-inch milling pads which are encrusted with coarse industrial diamonds. The pads we fitted to a handheld buffer and worked over the tiles gradually increasing the pads from coarse to finer grits. The machine we use has a water feed that keeps the surface lubricated and this also helps to reduce the dust. The fine slurry generated using this process is rinsed off and extracted with a wet vacuum.

The next step was to remove the old wax the floor had been treated with a dilution of Tile Doctor Wax Away which is designed for exactly this purpose. Its applied to the floor and then scrubbed in using a slow speed rotary machine. Afterwards the floor is rinsed with water several times and the waste removed with the wet vacuum. By the time we had finished that day we could see a big improvement in the floor surface. After the final rinse the floor was left to dry off overnight.

Sealing a Terracotta Tiled Hallway Floor

I came back the following day and using the moisture meter checked that the floor was dry. It was well within the accepted parameters, so I was ready to apply the seal.

To seal the Terracotta, I had selected to use Tile Doctor Colour Grow, this is a modern durable sealer that provides long lasting protection and ideal for busy hallways. Colour grow also also enhances the natural red and orange colours in the Terracotta leaving a nice subtle finish. Three coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow were applied.

Saltillo Terracotta Hallway Floor After Renovation Canterbury Saltillo Terracotta Hallway Floor After Renovation Canterbury

The photographs I took don’t show the difference in the floor that well, however my customer was very happy with the improvement in the floor and glad that the potential trip hazard has been resolved.


Source: Saltillo Terracotta Tile Floor Cleaning, Renovation and Sealing service in East Kent

Preparation for a tile floor is as important as any step in the tiling process. Taking extra care in the preparation process can save you time, material and aggravation, so follow these guidelines closely. The first steps are to insure the substrate is appropriate for the application. Taking these steps will not only insure the quality of your work, but also guarantee that your flooring will remain in place and free from stress cracks for as long as possible.

In some cases, screeding – a procedure that uses a very dense cement mixture – is spread to level a floor. While this is not a procedure often tackled by the non-professional with care and patience, the finished result can be truly amazing. The next step in preparing for a tile floor is to gauge or lay out the planned flooring area. During this process, it is important to take into consideration any obstacles you may encounter during the installation. These obstacles may include standpipes, drains, doorways, electrical receptacles or floor vents. When preparing for a tile job, it is best to think forward to these potential scenarios and know what to do when they arise.

Consider Substrate Material. When considering an appropriate subfloor or substrate, it’s imperative to consider a few factors. Introducing a cement board or hardi-backer style substrate may raise the level of your floor by up to a half inch. Once that is added to the quarter inch height of the adhesive and the quarter inch of the tile itself, you have now increased the height by nearly an inch. This may be a factor when considering door clearance, or thresholds for crossings into other rooms. When considering height increases in bathrooms, an extended drain pipe may need to be installed in certain circumstances to insure proper connection and sealing to prevent leakage.

In applications where height restrictions prevent cement board, thinner materials are available; lauan or composite substrates offer an equally strong bonding agent and are only around 1/8″ inch thick. Both these substrates are applied approximately the same way: drywall screws are applied to all four corners of the board, secured tightly, and countersunk appropriately to ensure levelness throughout. This procedure should be followed for the entire flooring area, and seams should overlap evenly over plywood joints. This is done to ensure that no tile is left in the middle of a gap, where stress and traffic can cause the tile to break.

Screeding. Screeding is a procedure most commonly associated with commercial applications, yet in recent years, it has found usage in homes across the country. It is best used in a scenario where a high spot is present and the rest of the floor must be brought up to that high spot to ensure levelness.

  1. Using a moist mixture of sand, Portland cement and lime, rake together everything in a large pan and spray lightly with a hose. Once the mix is sufficiently moist enough to clump in your hand and stay together, you are ready to spread the mixture across your floor.
  2. From the low spot, create a level “ribbon” of sand the length of one wall and even with the high spot. Create another ribbon on the opposite wall, level with the high spot. The two ribbons should now be level to each other. You will use these ribbons in conjunction with a large straight edge to evenly distribute the rest of the mixture across the open floor space.
  3. As you make your way across the open area, using a flat trowel, firmly trowel the screeded area to satin finish and inspect the areas for cavities. If you find a cavity, take a fistful of the screed mixture, and forcibly throw it directly on top of the affected area. Pull your straight edge over the area, and trowel to a smooth finish.
  4. Once you have screeded the entire area, let the mixture sit overnight to ensure a solid working surface that you will be able to walk and work on.

Laying Out the Tile. Gauging an area, or creating a layout, requires a certain amount of patience and savvy.

  1. Beginning with the center of the main entrance to the room, snap a straight chalk line through to the back of the room. Use a square to make sure the line is perpendicular to the door.
  2. Determine the center of the chalk line you just laid. Snap another straight line again, perpendicular to the line already present. This is your guideline, a simple gauge to determine if the floor you are laying is straight.
  3. Start laying out dry tile from the main door into the room, so that a full row of tiles is visible when you enter the room. Starting from the door, lay tiles along the first line you snapped. Use a spacer in between each tile to ensure consistent joints between tiles. You can use the side of another tile or another uniform object as a spacer.
  4. Once you reach the opposite end of the room and can no longer fit a full tile, lay a long 1” thick piece of wood perpendicular to the row of tiles, and tack it in place with a screw gun. Continue laying tiles next to this board, moving across the room in both directions.
  5. Examine the amount of un-tiled space left on the sides of the room, and determine how much you need to shift the rows so that you have equal borders on both sides of the room. Snap a new center line based on this measurement. The intersection of the new line and the board will be your new starting point for installing the tile. The original snapped line can be disregarded.
  6. Examine the area for obstacles. If drain pipes are located in the area, make note of their location in the courses, and determine if an adjustment in the layout needs to be made.
  7. Factor in any space, such as a closet or open cabinet bottom, that may need to be tiled. These can be tricky cuts, so prepare for them early to insure a timely and easy installation further down the line.

Now that you have taken the time to gauge, lay out and prepare your flooring area for installation, you can rest assured that your project will move smoothly towards completion. Should any questions arise, refer to your local home improvement store professionals. Be sure to inspect any beams or hardwood subfloors prior to installing any type of substrate. If the removal of any prior flooring is necessary, make certain that every element of that previous floor is fully removed and disposed of properly.



If you want to add a rustic charm to your kitchen, garage, or floors as a whole, consider installing a terracotta floor. This design choice works well in country homes or those looking for a Spanish flair. Terracotta is a warm copper color that complements most decor, and it can add a touch of elegance to any space. If you think you want to add this look to your home, consider some of the benefits below.

It’s Unique
Since terracotta is made of clay, you never get two tiles that look just alike. They all provide a slight variance in color and pattern that looks great, no matter where you put it. People often use terracotta backsplashes because of this unique look, but flooring is the most popular application. In a rustic setting, this unpredictable pattern works very well with the natural looking design.

It’s Easy to Install
Terracotta is very easy to install if you know what you are doing. It works just like any other tile. You simply provide a surface to adhere the tile to, allow it to set, and then grout it. Because of the porous nature of this material, it is actually very easy to cut for awkward corners. It is these pores, however, that also hurt the durability of the terracotta. If you add a sealant to the surface of the tile though, you should have no issues at all.

It’s Easy to Clean
Since you have to put a sealant over the terracotta tiles, cleanup is a breeze. Most liquid beads up on the surface, so all you have to do is wipe up a mess with a paper towel or mop. These floors don’t show stains or dirt easily either, so they can still make your rustic space look good, even if they are dirty. Oftentimes a little dirt actually helps to add some charm to the tiles. Thus you may not have to clean as often as you may think.

It’s Comfortable
Even though a lot of rustic furniture is made from wood, most people manage to find comfort in that material. Terracotta flooring is no different. It may be a hard tile, but it is not as hard as a lot of other tiles on the market. Thus you may find walking on terracotta to be a comfortable option for your home, especially if you have small children. This floor doesn’t get cold as easily as some other materials, so you should be fine to walk on it in winter months.

It’s Ageless
As time goes by, your rustic terracotta floor will look better and better. The unique patterns on each tile start to reveal themselves after years of wear. The tiles themselves lose some of the artificial smooth texture, and they start to become more realistic. If you are looking for a set of tiles to grow with you, these are definitely it. You should have a beautiful floor for years to come.