Monthly Archives: September 2019

Installing floor insulation will save you money on heating and cooling costs. If you live in an older home and notice that the floors are usually cold, then that cold air is radiating into the room. Your heating costs will be much higher during the colder seasons. When you install floor insulation it will protect your floor from moisture, and keep the cold air from reaching the floor.

Installation of floor insulation is a very straightforward process. If the house is a new construction, or you are adding an addition, it is easily done before the subfloor goes down. If you live in an older home, then the process is a little trickier, but still easy to do.

Materials Needed

  • Insulation
  • Stapler
  • Utility Knife
  • Measuring Tape
  • Metal Insulation Brackets
  • Vapor Barrier
  • Gloves
  • Face Mask

Step One – Measure Floor
With your tape measure, determine how much floor insulation you will need. Measure the width and length of the room and multiply them together to give you the square footage of the room. Take this with you when you order the insulation. You will also want to determine the R-factor of the insulation. The R-factor is the amount of insulation your home has. The higher the number, the more efficient it is. Insulation is also sold in rolled batts. If you know how many square feet you need, then you can simply purchase the appropriate number of rolls.

Step Two – Install Insulation – New Construction
There are two ways to install the floor insulation. If you are in a new home that does not have any flooring down yet, you can lay the insulation in between the exposed joists. Starting at one end of the room, work your way to the other corner. Fold out the paper flaps along the side of the insulation and staple it to the joist. Staple the insulation every six inches or so. Lay down the water barrier over the insulation and staple to the joists.

Step Three – Install Insulation – Basement
In an older home the process is basically the same, but you will have to insulate below the floor in the basement or crawl space. Again, start in the corner of the room and unroll the insulation. You will have to life up the insulation in between the joists and staple. Place metal supports on the joists to help hold the insulation up. Continue until you have completed the entire floor.

If you are remodeling your room in the near future, it would be better to wait until you tear up the floor to add the floor insulation. Once you get to the subfloor, pry it up to expose the joists and lay the insulation as you would in the first example. Reinstall the subfloor over the vapor barrier and finish with your floor remodel. Now when you walk out onto the floor in the dead of winter your feet will be warmer because of the floor insulation.



Installing a soundproof floor is a great way to significantly reduce noise levels for almost any type of room. You can install a soundproof floor in a child’s bedroom, home theater or literally any other room in the house. Installing a soundproof floor involves attaching a sound muffling barrier to a standard hard floor surface. Then, new flooring is installed on top of the soundproofing. This is a great DIY project for the weekend, and can usually be completed in less than a day.
Before You Begin

When using a heavy duty staple gun or nail gun, you should always ensure that you are wearing adequate eye protection. Standard construction eye safety glasses are inexpensive and provide sufficient protection for this type of work.

What You’ll Need

  • Sound barrier Examples: Quiet Barrier or Econo Barrier
  • Knee pads
  • Heavy duty staple gun or nail gun
  • Heavy duty shears or scissors
  • Vinyl barrier tape
  • Acoustic sealant
  • New flooring materials of your choice
  • Safety Glasses

Step 1– Preparing the FloorIf your room uses carpet flooring, you will need to remove the carpet, carpet padding in any floor baseboards that are installed. If you plan on reusing this carpet, then simply set it aside so that you can reinstall it after you’ve finished installing the soundproof floor material. Alternatively, you can choose to install new flooring material afterwards.
Step 2– Placing the Soundproofing Material
Starting at one side of the room, and at the wall, roll out the soundproofing material to the other wall. Then, cut the soundproofing material so that it fits snugly against the wall.

Step 3– Attaching the Soundproofing Material
Using your heavy duty staple gun or nail gun, staple or nail the soundproofing material to the sub-flooring; make sure to put enough staples or nails along the edges to insure the material does not shift or move. Then use the vinyl barrier tape to seal along the edges of the wall perimeter. If your sub-flooring is made of concrete and not wood, then use contact cement to secure the soundproofing material.

Step 4– Sealing the Soundproofing Material
Once you have completed taping the perimeter of the room with the vinyl barrier tape, use the tube of acoustic sealant to evenly caulk along the top of the tape at the edges of the walls. Make sure that there are no gaps or crevices in the sealant caulking. If you can find acoustic sealant in a standard caulk tube, then using a regular caulk gun works much better.

Step 5– Install the FlooringReinstall the carpet padding and carpet, or install the new floor according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 6– Finishing Up
Using your heavy duty stapler or nail gun, reattach the baseboards.



Concrete floor repair is essential in the upkeep of your home, patio or garage. Patching a hole while it is small will help prevent future damage.

Your floor must be clean before you begin working. Remove all dirt and loose material. If the hole is tapered you will need to remove the taper in order for your patch to be strong.

An adhesive needs to be applied before the concrete filler. Use a paint brush to apply the adhesive, then slowly fill the hole with the concrete filler. The filler should be mixed according to package directions. Do not make more filler than you will use in 20 minutes. If your hole is more than 1/4 of an inch deep you will need to apply the filler in layers. Let each layer dry before you add a new one. Use a trowel to compact the filler and then smooth the surface. Remove any excess filler.

Once you are satisfied with your patch job cover you need to cover the area with plastic. Place an old garbage bag over the area and weigh it down. Leave the plastic in place for three or four days.



Whether you are making changes to an existing glass-tiled area or starting a new installation project, it may be necessary to drill holes through the glass tiles to accommodate new fixtures or pipes. Although this may sound difficult, the process can be completed if you are willing to patiently work on the project.

Things You Will Need

  • Masking tape
  • Permanent marker
  • Drill
  • Diamond-encrusted carbide bit
  • Spray bottle with water
  • Scrap piece of MDF board (medium density fiberboard)
  • Plumber’s putty

Installed Tile
Tear off two pieces of masking tape and adhere the pieces to the surface of the tile in an “X” pattern over the area where you plan to drill a hole. This helps to keep the drill bit from wandering off the mark when drilling. Make a reference mark where you want to drill.

Attach the correct size diamond-encrusted carbide bit to your drill. If you plan to anchor a fixture to the tile, use a bit that is 1/8-inch larger than the anchoring screws. This extra space will prevent stress from being transferred from the fixture through the anchor and to the glass tile.

Position the tip of the drill bit over the mark. Drill at a slow speed with constant pressure. Keep the drill bit perpendicular to the tile to avoid chipping. Occasionally spray a mist of water around the drill bit to keep it lubricated. Drill to the desired depth.

Uninstalled Tile
Mark back of the glass tile where you plan to drill a hole. Place the tile on a scrap piece of MDF board with the backside facing up. Align the drill bit with the reference mark and drill a small pilot hole. Flip the tile over.

Take a ball of plumber’s putty and knead it into a ½-inch-diameter, 10-inch long roll. Join the ends of the putty to make a circle and place it around the area where you will be drilling. Press the circle of putty onto the tile to form a seal. This acts as a temporary dam to hold water while you are drilling. Fill the circle with water.

Align the tip of the drill bit with pilot hole and hold the drill perpendicular to the tile. Using a slow speed, gently apply constant pressure. Work at a slow pace and continue drilling until you have gone through the tile.

To drill larger holes to accommodate pipes, use a diamond coring bit.

Protect your eyes with safety glasses.