ceramic tiles

Maintaining your outdoor ceramic tile can make the difference between having an eye-catching patio or an eye sore. Often, homeowners are confused about how to maintain their outdoor ceramic tile, but the process is similar to the process used to maintain indoor ceramic tile. The most important step to take is to keep the grout in good condition. By using some elbow grease and exercising a little patience, you can keep your outdoor ceramic tile in good condition so that your patio is always ready for entertaining and your walkway is always ready to welcome guests.

What You’ll Need

  • 5-Gallon bucket
  • Broom
  • Dish detergent
  • Water hose
  • Grout sealer
  • Pressure washer (optional)

Step 1: Sweep Tile
Using the broom, sweep the tile. Make sure that you clear away any loose debris. The more debris you can clear away at this point, the easier it will be to clean the tile in the next step.

Step 2: Clean Tile
If you are certain that the grout is undamaged and that the tiles are secure, the quickest and easiest way to clean your outdoor ceramic tile is to use a pressure washer. Operate the pressure washer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you do not have a pressure washer, use a water hose to fill the 5-gallon bucket halfway with water. Add a few squirts of liquid dish detergent while filling the bucket to make a cleaning solution. Set the bucket aside. Use the water hose to wet the tile thoroughly. Then, get the bucket and dip the broom into the cleaning solution. Use the broom in a sweeping motion to clean the grout between each tile. Give extra attention to any compacted debris between the tiles. It may take some scrubbing to remove the compacted debris, but you must remove it completely. Continue to dip the broom into the cleaning solution and clean between the tiles until you have scrubbed the entire area. Use the broom to clean the surface of the tiles as well.

Step 3: Rinse Tile
After cleaning the tile and grout, use the water hose to rinse the ceramic tile. Rinse several times until all residue has been removed.

Step 4: Dry
Allow the tile to dry completely. On a hot day, drying may take only a few minutes. On cooler days, it may take a few hours.

Step 5: Seal Grout
Take the time to read carefully the manufacturer’s instructions for the grout sealer. Then, apply the sealer to the grout lines. Most grout sealers come in a bottle with a built-in application brush, so application should not be messy. Allow the first application to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and apply a second coat of the grout sealer. Allow it to dry.

By taking these steps at least once a year, you can maintain your outdoor ceramic tile so that it lasts for decades to come. Now that you have taken care of your outdoor ceramic tile, you can start planning your next home improvement project.



If you have a ceramic tile concrete floor and you need to remove the tiles, keep in mind that this is not an easy task, especially if you want to save the tiles to reuse in the future. Ceramic tiles tend to break in the process of the removal. You must be very patient when removing tiles from a concrete floor. You should also wear a pair of safety glasses and a dust mask for safety.

What You’ll Need

  • Chisel
  • Gloves
  • Hammer
  • Dust mask
  • Drill driver
  • Putty knives
  • Garden spade
  • Safety glasses

Step 1 – Starting to Remove the Tiles
Before you start removing the ceramic tiles from the concrete floor, cover all openings in the room with plastic sheeting or close all windows and doors. This will keep dust from accumulating in the room. Start removing the ceramic tiles from a doorway in case the tiles are directly installed on the concrete floor. Gently tap the grout lines with a chisel and hammer or a putty knife.

Step 2 – Uninstalling the Tiles
Use the putty knife to cut through the grout and remove as much grout as you can. Put a putty knife under the ceramic tile and drive it with a hammer. Pry in an upward direction until you can lift out the tile.

Make sure that the knife is parallel to the ground when you put it under the tile. Keep in mind that the tile may break or crack in your hands, so make sure that you are wearing appropriate clothing: a dust mask, a pair of safety glasses, a long-sleeved shirt and a pair of gloves.
If you want, you can use a sledgehammer to break the tiles down into pieces and then remove them with a floor scraper. Make sure that the floor scraper has a long handle and get rid of any residue of mastic after peeling the tiles from the concrete floor.

Step 3 – Removing the Cement Board
If you have a cement board on the concrete floor and the tiles are installed on the cement board, you can remove the first few tiles with a putty knife. However, you can break the cement board with a hammer when you see that it is partially visible.

Insert a straight-edged garden spade beneath the cement and pry in an upward direction until you have removed the tiles and the cement board. Keep a trash can or bucket near you so that you can easily throw away large pieces of debris. On the other hand, as for the dust and small pieces of debris, you can use a shop vacuum to dispose of them.

However, if the cement board is attached with screws, you should remove the tiles first and then the screws. You should never try to try to remove the cement board in this case because it is not only difficult but you can damage the concrete floor and leave the holes of the screws on the surface.



Preparation for a tile floor is as important as any step in the tiling process. Taking extra care in the preparation process can save you time, material and aggravation, so follow these guidelines closely. The first steps are to insure the substrate is appropriate for the application. Taking these steps will not only insure the quality of your work, but also guarantee that your flooring will remain in place and free from stress cracks for as long as possible.

In some cases, screeding – a procedure that uses a very dense cement mixture – is spread to level a floor. While this is not a procedure often tackled by the non-professional with care and patience, the finished result can be truly amazing. The next step in preparing for a tile floor is to gauge or lay out the planned flooring area. During this process, it is important to take into consideration any obstacles you may encounter during the installation. These obstacles may include standpipes, drains, doorways, electrical receptacles or floor vents. When preparing for a tile job, it is best to think forward to these potential scenarios and know what to do when they arise.

Consider Substrate Material. When considering an appropriate subfloor or substrate, it’s imperative to consider a few factors. Introducing a cement board or hardi-backer style substrate may raise the level of your floor by up to a half inch. Once that is added to the quarter inch height of the adhesive and the quarter inch of the tile itself, you have now increased the height by nearly an inch. This may be a factor when considering door clearance, or thresholds for crossings into other rooms. When considering height increases in bathrooms, an extended drain pipe may need to be installed in certain circumstances to insure proper connection and sealing to prevent leakage.

In applications where height restrictions prevent cement board, thinner materials are available; lauan or composite substrates offer an equally strong bonding agent and are only around 1/8″ inch thick. Both these substrates are applied approximately the same way: drywall screws are applied to all four corners of the board, secured tightly, and countersunk appropriately to ensure levelness throughout. This procedure should be followed for the entire flooring area, and seams should overlap evenly over plywood joints. This is done to ensure that no tile is left in the middle of a gap, where stress and traffic can cause the tile to break.

Screeding. Screeding is a procedure most commonly associated with commercial applications, yet in recent years, it has found usage in homes across the country. It is best used in a scenario where a high spot is present and the rest of the floor must be brought up to that high spot to ensure levelness.

  1. Using a moist mixture of sand, Portland cement and lime, rake together everything in a large pan and spray lightly with a hose. Once the mix is sufficiently moist enough to clump in your hand and stay together, you are ready to spread the mixture across your floor.
  2. From the low spot, create a level “ribbon” of sand the length of one wall and even with the high spot. Create another ribbon on the opposite wall, level with the high spot. The two ribbons should now be level to each other. You will use these ribbons in conjunction with a large straight edge to evenly distribute the rest of the mixture across the open floor space.
  3. As you make your way across the open area, using a flat trowel, firmly trowel the screeded area to satin finish and inspect the areas for cavities. If you find a cavity, take a fistful of the screed mixture, and forcibly throw it directly on top of the affected area. Pull your straight edge over the area, and trowel to a smooth finish.
  4. Once you have screeded the entire area, let the mixture sit overnight to ensure a solid working surface that you will be able to walk and work on.

Laying Out the Tile. Gauging an area, or creating a layout, requires a certain amount of patience and savvy.

  1. Beginning with the center of the main entrance to the room, snap a straight chalk line through to the back of the room. Use a square to make sure the line is perpendicular to the door.
  2. Determine the center of the chalk line you just laid. Snap another straight line again, perpendicular to the line already present. This is your guideline, a simple gauge to determine if the floor you are laying is straight.
  3. Start laying out dry tile from the main door into the room, so that a full row of tiles is visible when you enter the room. Starting from the door, lay tiles along the first line you snapped. Use a spacer in between each tile to ensure consistent joints between tiles. You can use the side of another tile or another uniform object as a spacer.
  4. Once you reach the opposite end of the room and can no longer fit a full tile, lay a long 1” thick piece of wood perpendicular to the row of tiles, and tack it in place with a screw gun. Continue laying tiles next to this board, moving across the room in both directions.
  5. Examine the amount of un-tiled space left on the sides of the room, and determine how much you need to shift the rows so that you have equal borders on both sides of the room. Snap a new center line based on this measurement. The intersection of the new line and the board will be your new starting point for installing the tile. The original snapped line can be disregarded.
  6. Examine the area for obstacles. If drain pipes are located in the area, make note of their location in the courses, and determine if an adjustment in the layout needs to be made.
  7. Factor in any space, such as a closet or open cabinet bottom, that may need to be tiled. These can be tricky cuts, so prepare for them early to insure a timely and easy installation further down the line.

Now that you have taken the time to gauge, lay out and prepare your flooring area for installation, you can rest assured that your project will move smoothly towards completion. Should any questions arise, refer to your local home improvement store professionals. Be sure to inspect any beams or hardwood subfloors prior to installing any type of substrate. If the removal of any prior flooring is necessary, make certain that every element of that previous floor is fully removed and disposed of properly.



Tile is often used with countertops either on the wall surrounding the counter as a backsplash, or sometimes inlaid into the counter itself. Whenever there is a change in angle from the wall to the counter, or a change in material, such as tile to laminate, the space between the two areas must be caulked with a flexible joint filler to help seal the area and absorb small movements that could damage the tile job. If this gap is oversized, it can still be filled with caulk, but the caulk should be modified with sand, like grout, to help fill the area. Things

You Will Need

  • Utility knife
  • Sanded caulk, matched to color of grout
  • Caulk gun

1. Cut the tip off of the tube of caulk with a utility knife. Try to cut off enough tip so that the resulting hole is just slightly smaller than the gap you are filling. If this is not possible due to the gap being larger than the widest spot on the tip, cut to the center of the tip to provide some control over the placement of the caulk.
2. Insert the tip of the caulk tube into the caulk gun. Push the plunger on the gun into the back of the tube and squeeze the trigger a few times to prime the tube and help get the caulk up to the tip.
3. Insert the tip of the gun into the gap between the counter and the tile in a corner or end of a row. Hold the gun close to upright rather than at an angle. Squeeze the trigger and slowly move the gun along the gap toward the other end of the row. Try to move the gun slowly enough that the resulting bead of caulk completely fills the gap; the faster you go the less caulk will be left behind.
4. Wet down your index finger with water and smooth the top of the caulk into place against the tile and the laminate. Let the caulk dry for 24 hours.


Most grout manufacturers make a matching caulk in both sanded and unsanded varieties. Purchase the matching color caulk to the grout, but get sanded no matter what was used on the tiles. The sand will add bulk to the caulk and help it fill the bigger gap.



This client got in touch to see if we could clean the grout in her large kitchen floor which was tiled with Terracotta style Ceramic tiles. As per usual we visited the property first which was in the market town of Ulverston to survey the floor and get a better idea of what was required. Believe it or not the grout had originally been Sandstone in colour, but poor cleaning practices had reduced the colour back to grey as all floor grouts (apart from white) are basically a cement grey with a

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