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This Victorian floor in Twickenham, Middlesex was in good physical condition for its age but needed a good deep clean. Our customer had informed us that they had never cleaned or sealed the floor in the sixteen years that they had lived there so it was well overdue.

I went over to survey the floor and completed a test clean on a small section of tiling to see which products/techniques would work best. I like to do this as it demonstrates to the client what can be done, and it allows me to come up with an accurate price for doing the work.

Dirty Victorian Floor Before Cleaning Twickenham

As you can see from the pictures, there was quite a difference in the test patch compared to the rest of the floor. Years of foot traffic from the street had taken its’ toll and the floor was very dirty. Luckily, the floor was in very good condition and had not worn too badly.

Once they had seen the test patch, they were confident that it would be worth go ahead with my quote. It would ensure that the period feature was retained for many years to come. The colours on the floor were quite faded so it would be nice to get it restored.

Cleaning a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

I started the cleaning process by first taping up the surrounding skirting boards and doors to ensure they were protected from potential splashing. Cleaning involved spraying the Victorian tiles with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a dedicated Tile and Grout cleaning product. This was left to soak in for about ten minutes and then scrubbed in using a black pad fitted to a heavy-duty rotary scrubber.

This gives the floor a good mechanical scrub and works wonders releasing the ground-in dirt and soil from the tiles. The strong dilution of Pro-Clean will also remove any remaining sealers from the tile, however after sixteen years I doubted there would much trace of sealer left. Once done the floor was rinsed with water and all the soils removed with a wet vacuum.

Following the initial clean the colours were already much stronger. Next step however was to improve on that by giving the floor an acid rinse using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up. This removes mineral deposits and generally brightens up the appearance of the tile. After another round of scrubbing the floor was rinsed with our high-pressure washer and then vacuumed, extracting all of the dirty water and dirt away in one go. The floor was looking a lot better and was left to dry overnight.

Dirty Victorian Floor During Cleaning Twickenham

Sealing a Victorian Tiled Hallway Floor

After allowing the floor to dry overnight, we returned the next day to seal the floor. First, checking the floor was dry using the damp meter. Floors of this age can take a little longer to dry as there is no damp-proof membrane so it’s always worth checking as applying a sealer to damp tiles is not a good idea.

Dirty Victorian Floor After Cleaning Twickenham

Once I was satisfied it was dry eight coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go sheen finish sealer were applied. This takes a while to do as each coat needs to dry before applying the next. The sealer will protect the Victorian tiles for dirt and stains, it also enhanced the colours in the tile and will make it easier to keep the floor clean going forward.

My client was very pleased with the floor and mentioned that they should have called me in sooner! For aftercare cleaning I recommended Tile Doctor Neutral Clean which is an effective cleaner with a neutral pH, its designed for cleaning tiles without degrading the sealer.

 

Source: Victorian Floor Tile Cleaning and Renovation Service in Middlesex

When it comes to durability, epoxy coated floors are at the top of the list but that does not mean that you shouldn’t take due care of your epoxy floor coating. Epoxy floors can easily resist chemicals than other kinds of flooring. Even if you use your patio or your garage the most within the day, you are assured that your epoxy floors are resilient enough to resist such traffic. Maintaining your epoxy floors does not require that much effort. You can keep your floors dust and particle free with minimal hassle.

What You’ll Need:

  • Broom
  • Hose
  • Paintbrush
  • pH Neutral dish soap
  • Water and pail
  • Rayon mop
  • Bristle brush
  • Squeegee

Step 1 – Sweep and Pre-Rinse the Floor

It is very easy to sweep off large debris and other visible dust particles from your epoxy coated floor. If you’re working with your patio or garage floor, getting rid of all that dust by hosing everything out won’t be that difficult. Make sure though that you also remove dusts that have accumulated at the sides and corners of the room. Make use with a paintbrush to remove them.

Step 2 – Prepare the Cleaning Solution

You can use any kind of all purpose cleanser for your cleaning solution but the experts find that using pH neutral dish soap is actually more effective the former. At the same time, a neutral cleaning solution is gentler than most cleaning agents that may eat away your epoxy coating. Mix 1/3 cup of dish soap with a gallon of water in a pail. You can use lukewarm or cool water but never use hot. Using your mop, mix everything until the dish soap is fully dissolved.

Step 3 – Mop the Floor

Use the solution to mop the entire floor. You can use any kind of mop for this job but rayon mops are actually better than bristled brooms or cotton mops. Rayon mops allow you to mop the entire area without snagging at the same time it is non-abrasive so your epoxy coating won’t be scratched or damaged.

Step 4 – Scrub Dark Stains

Scab the entire area for any kind of stain or discoloration. If you find any, use a bristle brush to restore the natural color. You should also brush those tough to reach areas like corners and sides to make sure that they are getting as much attention as the rest of the floor. One thing that you have to remember with brushes is that if you get one with really tough bristles, there might be a possibility of you scratching your epoxy coated floor.

Step 5 – Rinse Off

Hose down the entire floor with water. If you let the entire area dry on its own, there’s a possibility of the growth of molds and mildew. To prevent that from happening, use a squeegee to absorb the excess water from your floor. This may be a really tedious task but it’s a lot better than having to deal with molds and mildew in the future.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Stamped concrete flooring is a popular flooring choice for outdoor areas like patios and pool surrounds. Consider the following benefits of this type of flooring to determine whether it is right for you.

Cost

One of the benefits of this type of flooring is that it can achieve realistic looks without costing as much as comparable types of flooring. For example, you can make your concrete look like slate tile without actually having to pay the high cost of slate tile installed. This can save you a great deal of money if you are doing a large area.

Slab

Another benefit of this type of flooring is that it is still a slab even though you can make it look like smaller pieces. When you have small pieces of tile, you have to worry about cleaning the joints between them. With stamped concrete flooring, you should be able to use a power sprayer on all of it. This will make the process of maintaining your floor very easy.

Traction

Stamped concrete flooring naturally offers traction under foot. Instead of having slick, smooth concrete, you will have a textured surface to work with.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Covering up a linoleum kitchen floor can be very simple when you have the right research and information guide. Below are few ideas to do this.

1. Painting

Painting is a great and inexpensive way of covering up linoleum kitchen floor. If there are any rough edges of bumps in the kitchen floor sand them down prior to painting. Choose the color you want to use to paint your floor. Cover your floor with two coats of paint or until the entire floor is well covered and there you have it, a new floor in one easy step.

2. Luan Sheeting

Luan sheeting can be used to cover up a linoleum kitchen floor. Simply place the luan sheeting over the floor and secure it. Once the sheeting is down you will be able to replace the linoleum kitchen floor with the material of your choice.

3. Rubber Flooring

Rather than remove your linoleum kitchen floor your can simply cover it up. Rubber flooring is a great way of doing this. Measure your kitchen floor and identify the amount of rubber you need. Purchase the rubber of your choice and cut it to size. Lay your rubber over the linoleum kitchen floor and you will have a new floor in minutes. The rubber shouldn’t need to be secured as it is heavy. That will keep the rubber flat on the floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Linoleum floor is an environmentally friendly flooring option that feels comfortable and looks great. One of the problems with linoleum is that it can tear from time to time. If you have a tear in the flooring, this does not mean that you have to replace the whole area. You should be able to patch it in many cases. Here are the basics of how to patch a tear in a linoleum floor.

What You’ll Need

  • Scrap linoleum
  • Hair dryer or heat gun
  • Tape
  • Utility knife
  • Adhesive
  • Seam sealer
  • Trowel
  • Scraper

Step 1–Locate Scrap 

In order to make this work, you will need a piece of the exact same linoleum. Your best hope is that you have a piece of linoleum left over in the garage, the basement, or the attic. You need it to match because it is going to go into the area that is damaged. If you do not have a scrap piece, go back to the place where you bought the flooring and see if you can order another piece. It will not match exactly, but it will be better than looking at a hole in the floor.

Step 2–Acclimate the Piece

After you have obtained a scrap piece of linoleum, you need to allow it time to acclimate in the area that you are going to be installing. Linoleum is a natural product and it can expand and contract significantly. Lay it in the room for about 48 hours so that it can get up to the right temperature and humidity level.

Step 3–Making a Cut

Take the scrap piece of linoleum and lay it on top of the area that needs to be patched. Take some tape and tape the scrap piece to the top of the existing flooring. This way, it will not move while you are cutting. Then take your utility knife and make a cut down through the scrap piece of linoleum and the linoleum that is installed on the floor. By doing this, you will be able to make the piece fits exactly in the floor without any gaps.

Step 4–Remove the Flooring

After you make your cut, you need to remove the linoleum that is still on the floor. For this process, you may need to heat it up with a blow dryer or a heat gun. This will loosen up the adhesive and make it easier to take up. You may need to use something to scrape the adhesive also.

Step 5–Installing the Scrap

You are now ready to install the scrap piece of linoleum into the hole. Use a trowel or a putty knife to apply some of the linoleum adhesive to the floor. Then take your linoleum scrap and press it down into the hole. Make sure that none of the adhesive seeps out from around the edge. Put something heavy on the linoleum while the adhesive dries.

Step 6–Sealing the Seam

You should then use a seam sealer to seal up around the patch. This will keep dirt from getting in the seam and keep it from looking bad.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

This beautiful Terrazzo floor was uncovered in the hallway of a house in Doncaster, as you can see it had taken a bit of a beating over the years, but the owners were keen on having it restored. Restoring period features like these are a great idea as they are very sought after and can add a lot of value to a property.

The floor had spent many years below carpet and nails had been hammered through the floor to hold carpet grippers in place. Along with this there was a lot of glue and paint to remove. However, I was confident that we could get the floor restored, I gave them a quotation for the work, and they were happy to proceed as soon as possible.

Terrazzo Hallway Before Renovation

Doncaster is a hot spot for terrazzo floors, apparently there was a big Italian community there in the early part of the 1900s. Doncaster is also famous for its rich rail heritage; the main Doncaster train station is on the East Coast mainline and you find many original station buildings have Terrazzo floors in the public areas.

Cleaning a Terrazzo Tiled Hallway Floor

The first job was to remove as much of the paint, glue and other contaminates as possible. These were scraped off the floor by hand using a razor-sharp scraper.

We then moved onto using a set of five diamond burnishing pads of different grits to cut through the top layers and grime to eventually bring this floor back up to its’ former glory. Starting off with the most coarse pad first I started to go over the floor a pad at a time, each pad is fitted to a rotary machine which has extra weight added to it to make the pads work ever better. Each time a pad is changed, it is slightly less coarse, this starts to polish the floor up to a shine eventually ended with a very fine diamond pad. Water is added at each stage and removed with the wet vacuum before the next pad is used.

Gradually the original floor started to shine through, the colours were quite pronounced, and you could see the floor was a lovely example of terrazzo. After a final rinse to remove the soiling generated by burnishing, I turned my attention to filling the many holes where the nails had been.

Terrazzo Hallway Doncaster During Renovation

Sealing a Terrazzo Tiled Hallway Floor

The floor was left to dry off overnight and the following morning I returned to seal the floor with several coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow. I choose this product as its designed to enhance the subtle colours in the floor and its fully breathable which is an important consideration when sealing floors in older properties. Damp proof membranes are a common feature these days but are a relatively recent invention. With older floors you need to allow the floor to breathe so the moisture in the sub floor can rise and evaporate at the surface, without this the moisture will reach out to the walls where it can cause rising damp.

Terrazzo Hallway Doncaster After Renovation

The result was a highly polished floor just the way it would have looked when it was first installed 90 years ago. As you can imagine the owners were over the moon with the transformation.

Terrazzo Hallway Doncaster After Renovation

Source: Terrazzo Floor Restoration in South Yorkshire

You can turn a cold, unattractive concrete basement floor into one that is usable, easy to clean, attractive, and may even be soundproof by tiling it. Tiling is fast, simple and requires so little experience that even a beginner can do it successfully in just 2 or 3 days. All you need is to follow the 6 steps below.

What You’ll Need:

  • Mortar
  • Measuring tape
  • Chalk line
  • Tile
  • Wet saw
  • Notched trowel
  • Spacers
  • Sponge
  • Rubber trowel
  • Grouting
  • Needle-nosed pliers
  • Cloth
  • Sealer
  • Mop
  • Safety goggles
  • Work gloves

Step 1 – Prepare your Floor

  • If you have a concrete floor, seal it and let the sealer dry.
  • Sweep the finished floor so that all dust and debris are removed
  • Check to be sure there are no protrusions such as nail or screw heads in the floor’s surface.
  • Find the center of the room and mark it.
  • Use a chalk line to create a grid with squares 1/8 inch larger than the tiles you have chosen to install.

Step 2 – Mix and Apply Mortar

  • In a deep bucket, mix thin-set mortar mix and water, stirring until the mix has the consistency of mashed potatoes.
  • Spread the mortar, using a trowel with 1/4 inch notches.
  • Using the same trowel, spread a small amount of mortar on the back of the first tile you will lay in place.
  • Lay the tile in the center of the floor, back 1/8 inches from the grid line you made with your chalk.
  • Using 1/8 inch spacers, apply mortar to the backs of 3 more tiles and set them so that the 4 tiles form a square in the center of the room with 1/8 inch spaces between each of the tiles.

Step 3 – Finish Laying the Tile

  • As you did with the first square of tiles, continue laying these squares, beginning in the center of the floor and working outward toward the perimeter.
  • When you reach each edge you will need to use your wet saw to cut tiles to fit between the wall and the outermost tile.
  • If any thin-set has oozed up from the tile edges, use a wet sponge to remove it.

Step 4 – Remove Spacers

Allow the tiles and mortar to set overnight, then use your pliers to extract the spacers from between the tiles, being careful to avoid loosening any of the tiles. Use a putty knife to remove any thin-set that remains between the tiles.

Step 5 – Mix and Apply Grout

  • Make individual small batches of grout by mixing the dry grout with water and blending the mixture until all lumps are gone.
  • When mixed properly, the grout should have the consistency similar to that the mortar had.
  • Force the grout into the joints between the tiles, using your rubber-edged trowel.
  • After applying each batch of grout, let it sit for 10 minutes while setting up.
  • Use your damp sponge to wipe away any excess grout.
  • Rinse the grout out of the sponge after each swipe.

Step 6 – Wipe and Seal the Tile Floor

  • Allow the grout to harden overnight.
  • Wipe the tile surfaces with a damp rag, let the tile dry, then use a mop to apply your sealer.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Ceramic tile floors are ideal as a flooring choice for home or office. The advantages of having ceramic tiles for commercial business are significant.

Durability

Ceramic tile is known for its outstanding durability. If tiles are installed properly, they can withstand a great deal of heavy traffic use and will outlast most other flooring materials; with the exception of wooden flooring, which ceramic tiling is on par with. Because of the durability factor, there will be little or no expense involved in future replacement costs.

Waterproofing

In a commercial enterprise where moisture might be a problem, ceramic tiles are exceptional because they can withstand moisture, both to the tiles and the sub-flooring. Ceramic tile can be slippery though when wet, therefore, when choosing a ceramic tile for an area that might be vulnerable to moisture, choose textured tiles which will allow better traction to prevent slips or falls.  If purchasing ceramic tiles for use in an area that may have water tracked onto the tiling, it would also be a good idea to place mats to safeguard against slipping.

Maintenance

Ceramic tile is easy to maintain and can therefor often reduce facility maintenance costs.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

self leveling compound is ideal in smoothing out un-leveled wood floors and concrete floors. Concrete floors may have bumps, especially if poured incorrectly; wood floors often have problems with dips and bumps. It is important that the floor is leveled and smoothed when planning to do a ceramic floor tiling.  When a floor that is to be placed with ceramic tile is uneven, there is a greater chance that the floor tiles will crack and not last over time; a self leveling compound will prevent this, although it’s not always a perfect solution.

Disadvantages

A self leveling compound can dry extremely fast. You may only have about 20 minutes to mix, pour and even out the self leveling compound. Therefore it’s important for a person to have all the tools and materials needed in mixing, pouring and spreading the self leveling compound.

Self leveling compounds do not provide stability on the subfloor or the surface where the tiles are to be placed. If the wood subfloor loosens, the self leveling compound may break up, causing the loosening and eventual damage of the ceramic floor tiles. It is therefore important that the stability of the subfloor should be ensured first, before applying any self leveling compound on it.

Another disadvantage of using a self leveling compound is that it does not stick well to a subfloor with dust and grime. The subfloor needs to be cleaned from dust and grime before a self leveling compound is applied; it needs to be spotless.

Preparation Concerns

Self leveling compound needs to be carefully mixed to the right consistency before it’s poured in the subfloor. The self leveling compound does not even itself out, so using a squeegee or trowel is essential in smoothing it out. Again, since there’s only about 10 to 20 minutes before the self leveling compound dries out, you have to move quickly to spread and even out the mixture.

Problems
A self leveling compound can also break up easily when it’s mixed with extra water. Never try to put additional water in the self leveling compound mixture to try to loosen it up. Instead, focus on quickly working and spreading the material to the subfloor surface.

A self leveling compound will be set after half an hour or so. In two to four hours, the surface that was applied with self leveling compound can be walked on. Ceramic floor tiles, however, can be used 24 hours after the self leveling compound was put on the subfloor.

Self leveling compounds can also remain glued on tools like the trowel and the bucket. It’s important to immediately wash the tools used in applying and smoothing out the self leveling compound, otherwise these tools will permanently have the compound affixed to them.

Health Hazards

Before using a self leveling compound, read the directions first. Always ensure that safety procedures are followed while working with the it. Breathing in dust that comes from the application of the self leveling compound can pose health risks.

You should know the drawbacks of using a self leveling compound. Knowing these will ensure that you are better prepared when handling and using it.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

To keep water from pooling, and to prepare concrete floors for installing flooring, you may at times find it necessary to apply a floor leveler. Even for the inexperienced handyman or homeowner, applying these floor levelers is no more difficult than painting the floor. With the right instructions and a list of needed materials, you will find this project to be quite simple.

What You’ll Need

  • Drill
  • Carpenter’s level
  • Pencil
  • Paintbrush
  • Paint roller
  • Latex primer
  • Powdered self-leveling cement
  • 5-Gallon bucket
  • Mixer
  • Sanding pad

Step 1 – Cleaning your Floor

Avoid the frustration of applying a floor leveler on a floor that is dirty, dusty, or has debris scattered on it. Before applying your leveler, start with a clean floor. Sweep it to remove dirt and debris, and damp mop it to remove dust that can prevent the leveler from adhering properly to the concrete floor.

Step 2 – Mixing and Applying Your Primer

Before purchasing your primer, check the concrete surface on which you plan to apply your primer. If this surface is more porous, as it often is with older floors, you will need enough primer for 2 coats. If you are in doubt about the floor’s porosity, apply a small amount of water to the floor’s surface. A porous surface will take longer to dry. To mix your primer, remove the primer can lid and stir with a paint stir stick until the primer color in the can is even. Pour onto the concrete floor an amount of primer small enough for you to work with it. Spread the primer with a paint roller, being sure to cover the entire surface before moving on to the next area. Allow the primer to dry. If, after it has dried, you see areas that seem dryer, apply a second coat.

Step 3 – Mixing the Leveler

In a 5 gallon bucket add a third of a bag of powdered concrete leveler. Add water, and use a variable speed drill with an attached stirring paddle to mix the leveler and water to a consistency of pea soup. Mix only enough of the leveler that you can apply and spread it before it has hardened. If necessary mix more batches, then apply them.

Step 4 – Applying the Leveler

As you begin applying the leveler to the concrete surface, keep in mind you will have only about 10 minutes working time, after the leveler is mixed. Work small areas. You’ll need to complete your application before this time has run out. Pour some of the leveler on the concrete surface that you’re planning to fill. Use a soft bristle broom to spread the leveler. To avoid having to sand the edges down, be sure to feather them as you spread the leveler. Apply in small rows, finishing each row before beginning the next. Allow the leveler to flow to its own level, evenly covering the edges between rows. When finished applying your mixed leveler compound to all depresses areas of your concrete floor, check to be sure one application will be enough. Then, allow it to completely dry.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com