Maintaining a Sandstone Fireplace

Details below of a Sandstone Fireplace surround from a house in Thame, Oxfordshire. The fireplace had never been cleaned as the customer did not know where to start and so gave us a call.

Sandstone Fireplace Cleaning

To clean the fireplace I used a diluted mixture of Tile Doctor Pro Clean and NanoTech Ultra Clean which combines the cleaning power of Pro-Clean with the tiny abrasive particles in Ultra Clean to produce a very effective cleaning product that is safe to use on Stone. This was left to dwell on the stone for a short while in order to let it soak in and work on the dirt before scrubbing it into the Sandstone with a hand brush. This process did a good job cleaning the stone and once I was happy with the result the soiled cleaning solution was removed using a wet vacuum and the stone was rinsed with water to make sure all the chemical had been removed.

Sandstone Fireplace Sealing

When dry the Sandstone was sealed using a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which will protect the stone going forward as well as bringing out the deep colour in the stone. To finish the job off I removed the grate and cleaned it up using some grate black to make it look new again before putting it back; last step was to remove the protective strip I had put around the fireplace to protect the wall and carpet and the job was done.

As you can imagine the customer was quite surprised by the results and hadn’t realised what a wonderful fireplace they had until now.
 
 
Source: Help maintaining Sandstone

How to Repair Marble Floor Chips and Cracks

Marble is a delicate stone that can become damaged fairly easily but have no fear as you can repair a marble floor without spending thousands. A marble floor is very expensive and replacing it isn’t in the cards or the budget. The only recourse you can take is to repair the marble floor by patching any chips or chunks from the marble. It seems much harder than it actually is and the article below will show you how to do easily repair the marble floor.

What you’ll need

• Two-part clear epoxy
• Plastic spoon
• Putty knife
• Soft brush
• Metal nail file
• 2 plastic bowls
• Water
• Clean rags
• Tack cloth
• Miniature vacuum
• Stone adhesive
• Polyurethane
• Micro brush

Step 1 – Marble Floor Surface Preparation

Since the marble floor is already chipped this means you do not have to remove the finish like you would to repair scratches. You do not even have to wipe down the floor. There is some minimal preparation to consider though as you are still left with a hole in your expensive marble floor. Inside the hole will most likely be loose marble which will need to be removed in order to make the patch adhere. Use the brush to dust out the bits of rock in the hole as well as to remove any loose pieces from the hole of the site. Use the miniature vacuum to suck up the debris. Use the tack cloth to remove the dust away from the perimeter of the hole.

Step 2 – Replace the Chunk

If the chunk of marble still remains then you may be in luck. Marble does not usually crumble and depending on how the hole was made you will be able replace it. When you want to repair a marble floor in this manner you will need to use adhesive formulated for marble or stone. Apply some of the adhesive to the hole and some to the piece then place it inside the hole. Press down and wipe away any excess adhesive.

 

Step 3 – Filling a Hole

This is the easiest method to repair a marble floor that has a chunk taken out of it and is missing. Make sure that the hole has been full cleaned and prepared prior to filling the hole with epoxy. Use an epoxy that comes in two parts and mix them in a clean bowl according to the directions. You will have to work quickly before the epoxy starts to set. Spoon the epoxy into the hole with the spoon until it overflows the edges. Use the putty knife to spread the epoxy out and this will also push the epoxy all the way inside the hole. Wet down a rag and remove the excess water and use it to wipe around the edges of the hole. This will remove the excess epoxy so that the edges are flush to the marble floor.

 

Step 4 – Finishing Up

After the epoxy has cured you can seal the spot using polyurethane. Pour a very small amount of polyurethane in a plastic bowl. Apply it over the epoxy using the micro brush.
 
 
Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Concrete Floor Restoration Options in Older Houses

Sometimes older houses need concrete floor restoration in order to make the floor look like new again. Restoring concrete floors require repairing damaged concrete and hiding the repairs using various strategies, such as stenciling, staining, or painting.

Concrete Patching

Small cracks on the floors of old houses can be fixed by patching it with a special mortar mix designed for concrete repairs. Before applying the patch, remove any loose debris on the damages and clean them thoroughly with a wire brush. Use a vacuum to remove any remaining dust or residue. Purchase a concrete patch mix. Pour the powder in a container and add water until a good consistency is achieved. Make sure that the patch is level with the concrete floor surface. Allow it to dry completely.

Concrete Injections

Cracks and joints may also be repaired using an injectable concrete repair product, such as hydraulic mortar or epoxy. Once the product is injected into the cracks, it fills in the gaps and creates a strong bond that will protect the concrete from further damage. If the holes on the cracks are too small, new holes can be drilled into them to allow the injecting device to access the inner gaps in the crack. Before applying the product, make sure to clean and remove any loose debris inside the cracks first.

Concrete Recasting

If the floor has a large extent of damage, the entire damaged area has to be demolished first. When the damaged area is removed from the floor, the damaged steel bar supports have to be replaced as well. Afterwards, the damaged area has to be cemented again with a better grade of concrete.

Staining

Staining is a great way to cover up the repaired concrete. Concrete patches and re-casted areas may be very noticeable after repair and need to be hidden. Staining is one of the best ways to restore the concrete floor and hide the repairs from public view. This method requires the use of an acid solution that will easily get absorbed in the concrete floor. When using this method, make sure to cover all surfaces connected to the floor with painter’s tape, especially the walls and the door.

Painting and Stenciling

Painting the floor with epoxy-based paints is a good way to hide repaired areas on the floor. Use paints specifically designed for concrete floors. Stencils are ready-made patterns that can be placed on top of the floor to create elaborate designs when painting the floor. Use stencils only after staining or painting the concrete.

Sealing

After repairing, staining or painting the floor, it also needs to be sealed to ensure that it stays protected. A concrete sealer can be applied using a paint roller or a specialized sealer spray. Make sure that the floor is completely dry when doing this. Any trapped moisture can lead to further concrete damage. The sealer should also be reapplied after two years.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/concrete-floor-restoration-options-in-older-houses#.Ujl3ksZmiSo#ixzz2fElHaubc

Marble Floor Restoration: Mistakes to Avoid

Marble floor restoration is a project that is usually more trouble than it is worth. A marble floor is very expensive and opulent in its look and will enhance the interior of any building, but marble is easily damaged. Marble floor restoration is usually done because the surface become nicked or scratched and needs to be refinished. When setting out on a marble floor restoration project, you have to take great care or else you may damage the marble beyond restoration. The article below will share with you several tips that you should keep in mind in order to ensure that the marble floor restoration is a success.

Not Removing All of the Finish

The marble floor restoration process always begins with removing the finish that is on the marble. If you fail to remove all of the finish, you will wind up with an uneven looking marble floor. Do not remove the finish just in one area, but the finish on the entire floor. The finish is typically hardened wax or polyurethane and is removed by sanding. A motorized sander is the only way to go, and you will need to use fine grit sandpaper. Use medium pressure when using the sander and continue until the floor looks milky white. This will indicate that the finish is effectively removed from the marble flooring and will allow marble floor restoration to be done without flaw.

Not Wearing Proper Attire

Once you have removed the finish, you need to be very careful about what you wear when restoring the marble. Particularly important is your choice of footwear. Since the finish has been removed from the marble, you will be walking directly on the exposed marble. Marble is fairly soft and easily damaged. Avoid wearing shoes with dark rubber soles, as you can leave streaks on the marble. You should also avoid anything with a rigid heel. You should wear cotton booties over sneakers, socks or your bare feet. The cotton is soft enough that it will not scratch or damage the marble.

Using Chemicals

The worst thing you can do for a marble floor is to use chemicals. Many chemicals used to remove a finish or repair the luster of the marble are very harsh. The chemicals usually contain acid which will literally eat away at the top surface of the marble. This will, in the end, damage the marble and may also harm you. If you want to repair the luster of the marble, you only need to look as far as your faucet or pantry. Wipe the marble down with a damp rag soaked in fresh water. Water will help add moisture to the stone and make it shine prior to finishing it, which will seal in the shine.

Stiff Brushes and Scrubbing

Marble, unlike cement or granite, is easily damaged when the finish has been removed. Even the slightest misuse of a cleaning utensil can cause it to be damaged. Never use anything with stiff bristles, as they can easily scratch the marble surface.
 
 
Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Restoring Victorian Tiles

This job was a full restoration of a Victorian tiled floor that had been hidden under those thin adhesive backed lino tiles (see photo below) in the hallway of a house in Sutton Coldfield.

Restoring Victorian Floor Tiles

The first job was to remove the vinyl tiles which being stuck onto the floor left a rather nasty looking floor. I knew from experience this would be tricky to remove and so soaked the floor in Tile Doctor Remove and Go (does what it says on the tin) and left it for a while to soften the glues. Then with a rotary machines fitted with a polyscrub brush attached running at slow speed set about scrubbing the floor to get as much glue of the Victorian floor tiles as possible. This process worked quite well however once I have removed the soiled solution using a wet vacuum I could see there were still quite a a few stubborn patches remaining. The solution was to get down on my hands & knees with a nylon brush, a scraper and more Remove and Go, as you can imagine it took a long time to get the floor really clean and when finished I gave the tile a thorough wash down with water to neutralise the floor and then left it overnight to dry.

Sealing Victorian floor Tiles

The next day I confirmed the floor had dried and then proceeded to apply four coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go which is the recommended sealer for Victorian tiles, it not only protects the tile it also leaves a nice shine on the floor.

The photographs show a huge transformation and my customer was absolutely delighted with the results, and left the comment below on the Tile Doctor feedback system.

Trevor had a very tough job to do getting our Victorian tiles into shape after decades under a Marley tile floor. They were covered in layers of hard glue but Trevor worked exceptionally hard restoring them to like new. Trevor was very friendly and punctual. An excellent job done and we would definitely recommend him.
Giles Stendall, Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands

 
 
Source: Victorian Tile Maintenance and Restoration

How to Repair Marble Floor Etching

You can repair a marble floor if you have accidentally etched the surface. Many assume it’s difficult to do but is actually simple. A marble floor is very expensive and you want to not only protect your investment but also preserve the beauty of your home. Marble is softer than granite and concrete which means etching it is easier. When you repair a marble floor you have to take great care I doing so because of its soft properties as you could easily damage it more. It is important to not panic when you find that the marble floor is etched as they are fairly superficial. The article that follows will show you how to repair a marble floor that is etched.

What you’ll need
120-grit sandpaper
Radial sander
Tack cloth
Liquid wax
Polyurethane sealer
Two-part clear epoxy
Plastic spoon
Putty knife
Bucket
Water
Rag

Step 1 – Surface Preparation

In order to remove etching from a marble floor you have to first prepare the area. This is especially important if you are not going to be working in a localized area of the marble floor. Soak a rag in ordinary water and squeeze out the excess then wipe the floor down. Doing this not only cleans the surface of the marble floor but also highlight etches.

Step 2 – Remove the Finish

A marble floor is sealed with polyurethane, which protects the surface from damage while maintaining a brilliant surface. Etches in the marble floor are often on the surface of the finish and not directly on the marble. It is important to remove the finish slowly because you may repair the marble floor inadvertently in this Step. Attach a piece of 120-grit sandpaper to the radial sander and use medium pressure as you gently sand away the finish. Continually run your hands over the area to check to see etches are still there. The finish will be removed from the marble floor when it appears dull and somewhat milky white. Use the tack cloth to wipe down the marble floor to remove the dust. This will help you tell that etches are gone or if they remain and the finish is gone.

Step 3 – Remove Etches

Removing etches in marble is fairly simple because it is a softer material than granite or concrete. Use a fresh piece of 120-grit sandpaper attached to the radial sander. Instead of using medium pressure you will want to press firmly directly on the etch. Never stop moving the sander because if you leave it in one place the sander will further damage the marble floor. Use a tack cloth to remove the particles of dust and wipe it down with a damp rag. This will show you if you need to sand the floor more or if you can finish the repair.

Step 4 – Finishing

You can complete the repair of a marble floor by applying a thin layer of wax and buffing it until it shines. You will then paint on at least two layers of polyurethane. Wait for it to dry prior to using the marble floor.
 
 
Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Milling Sandstone Tiles to Improve Maintenance

Sandstone is generally a rough textured surface requiring regular cleaning and sealing to keep it looking good, I’ve also known customers to complain that the rough texture can shred mops during regular cleaning. This Sandstone tiled floor installed in a house in Lancaster was no different and so with the owner’s approval we decided to gently grind the sandstone to produce a smoother more manageable surface. At Tile Doctor we refer to this process as Milling and it’s especially useful for flattening a raised surface between tiles often called lippage.

Milling and Sealing a Sandstone Tiled Floor

As far as I know Milling was developed at Tile Doctor to basically smooth down a rough textured surface to make it easy to clean, seal and maintain; it’s a one off process and is akin to sanding down a rough piece of wood with sandpaper. We don’t use sandpaper for this purpose but diamond encrusted burnishing pads which like sandpaper come in different levels of coarseness. Milling actually reveals more of the character in the surface of the stone which is further enhanced during sealing for which recommend the use of a matt finish sealer such as Tile Doctor Colour Grow or if there is still a bit of texture in the stone we recommend the use of a topical sealer such as Tile Doctor Seal and Go which also leaves a nice low sheen finish.

The customer was on holiday when the work was done but was so pleased with the effect of the milled Sandstone floor she rang me up personally to say thanks and left the comment below on the Tile Doctor feedback system, she was experiencing a lot of trouble cleaning this floor and we managed to resolve that and still keep the texture and character of this beautiful floor.

“Total transformation of our floor. Can’t quite believe the results. No mess and an amazing result. Thank you v much
D. Rix, Lancaster”
 
 
Source: Help with Sandstone Tile Maintenance

How to Cut Into Limestone Tiles

Cutting limestone tiles is a technical task and requires precision and accuracy. When cut precisely and assembled properly, limestone tiles can give a beautiful and rich look to your floor. They provide superior decor at half the rate of marble and other expensive stones. Properly cut limestone tiles are easier to maintain and last long.

What you’ll need
Diamond Wheel Tile Cutter/Machine
Chalk
Safety Mask
Safety Goggles
Thick Heavy Gloves
Water
Hose / Bottle

Step 1- Precautions

Before you begin work, it is essential that you take precautions to avoid any accidents. While you cut limestone, the shattering fine particles can be dangerous. The shreds can cause minor scratches so keep a safe distance from the cutter. Clouds of limestone dust can cause different allergies. Do not ever cut tiles without wearing a proper safety mask. The particles could also affect your eyes so put on safety goggles. Also protect your hands by wearing thick heavy gloves. Make sure that the gloves fit your hand perfectly so that they do not hinder work. Lastly, wear thick, insulated old clothes.

Step 2- Area Selection

After you are safely dressed, you need to decide where to place the stone to cut it. You will need a hard, flat surface for your diamond wheel tile cutter. It is best to do the cutting outdoors because the flying particles can make a big mess which can be a hassle to clean later.

Next, you mark the areas for cutting on the tile with a chalk or pencil. Be very careful when you make your marks because one wrong mark will mean a badly shaped tile. Also, be sure the mark can be easily removed later, use a pencil or chalk.

Step 3-Preparing the Diamond Wheel Tile Cutter

Fill water bottles or get a hose and fill the drain of the diamond wheel tile cutter with water. Once it is full, switch on the tile cutter for at least two to three minutes and let the blade get wet. Once the blade is completely lubricated with the water, switch off the cutter and put the tile on the selected area.

Step 4- Positioning the Limestone Tile

After your wheel tile cutter is ready, you need to place the tile in a way that the blade lays at the edge of the cut that was marked. The safety guard bar is to be kept as close as possible to the tile. Keep your hand away from the blade to avoid any injuries.

Next, switch on the diamond wheel tile cutter and push the tile against the blade smoothly and slowly. Be careful with your hands. After cutting all the pieces, turn the diamond wheel tile cutter off. Remove the tile pieces from the area and see if you need more cuts. Repeat the exercise if you want to cut more limestone tiles.
 
 
Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Maintaining Victorian Floor Tiles

This classic Victorian tiled floor was installed in the hallway of a house in the town of Weeping Cross, Staffordshire. The floor was in pretty good condition but had become dull and was in need of a deep clean to put some life back in the tiles, there was also evidence an old adhesive around the edges indicating it had been covered by carpet at some point.

Cleaning Victorian Floor Tiles

The first job was to remove the glue which I did with a small black scrubbing pad and a mixture of Tile Doctor Remove & Go combined with NanoTech UltraClean and a scraper.

The Remove and Go NanoTech worked well on the stubborn adhesive so I went onto clean the rest of the floor using the same product combination but this time worked in using a rotary machine fitted on slow speed with a black scrubbing pad pad. The resulting soiled solution was vacuumed up using a wet pick up machine and the floor left to dry overnight.

Sealing Victorian floor Tiles

The next morning I mopped the floor with a damp mop and then when it was dry applied four coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go which is a recommended protective sealer for Victorian tiles and leaves a nice shine on the floor. As you can see it looks fantastic and when the owners came home they were thrilled with the results and left the comment below on the Tile Doctor feedback system.

“Trevor has done a great job with our tiled floor, we are so pleased with the results! We would definitely recommend him!
Mark Broomhall, Stafford”

 
 
Source: Cleaning and Sealing Victorian Tiles in Staffordshire

How to Seal Natural Stone Floors

Natural stone floors are a beautiful way to brighten up your home interiors. They are gaining popularity over traditional flooring materials like concrete, wood or ceramic. However, these are delicate and hence need to be sealed so that the natural appearance and glow is intact. Sealing is needed to protect the natural stone from damage by stains as well.

Tools and Materials Needed:

• Vacuum Cleaner
• Cloth
• Proprietary residue remover
• Stone Sealant
• Paint roller
• Soft-bristle brush
• Microfiber Piece
• Gloves

Step 1: Cleaning

Cleaning is the most necessary requirement for natural floors before you start sealing them. Use your vacuum cleaner floor brush to clean the surface thoroughly. Make sure that the floor corners are cleaned as well. After vacuuming, take a cloth and dip it in a solution of warm water and a mild non acidic floor cleaner. Wipe the entire floor with this cloth. Check if the stone pores are filled with any dust or debris and remove them before wiping. Do not scrub with any harsh material as this spoils the natural stone.

Step 2: Removing Stains

Let the floor dry up completely. In case there are stains on the floor that refuse to go, you have to use some proprietary residue cleaner. Apply the cleaner on places where the stains are with a soft bristled brush. Leave this for ten minutes. Rinse off by wiping the portion with a wet rag.

Step 3: Drying

After cleaning and letting the floor to dry, take a soft small microfiber piece and wipe all over the surface of the floor so that all moisture is removed. This is necessary before application of the sealant.

Step 4: Selecting Sealant

Choose a sealant for your floor according to your taste. That is, if you want the natural stone floor to have a polished finish or an unpolished one, you will have to buy a compatible sealant accordingly. The sealant must be based on fluoropolymer technology. Every type of natural stone has a separate sealant that can be used on them. Make sure that you choose, keeping in mind what stone your floor is made of.

Step 5: Sealing Method

It is integral that you know when exactly you need to seal the stone, as separate stones have separate methods for sealing. In case you have terracotta, limestone or sandstone flooring, these need to be sealed right before laying and grouting of the tiles. Before these are laid, their sides, front and back surfaces have to be sealed. Other stones like marble, travertine, marble and granite need to be sealed at the edges and the top areas after they are laid out and grouted. Wear gloves during the sealing process.

Step 6: Application

The work area must be well ventilated. Read the instructions on the pack of the sealant you purchased, as an extra precaution. Dip a soft paint brush or roller brush in the sealant solution, after you prepare it according to pack guidelines. Now, evenly apply the sealant on the stone floor. Make sure the floor is saturated with the sealant. The sealant must be applied in long rush strokes, in a uniform direction so that it covers the entire surface of the tiles or floor.

Step 7: Finishing Steps

Leave the sealant to cure for an hour or as required, according to the pack instructions. Extra sealant needs to be wiped off with a clean piece of cloth so that there are no streaks on the stone surface. Once the sealing is completed, it is sure to last for at least five years before re sealing is required.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com