Install VCT Flooring over an Existing Floor

VCT flooring (Vinyl Composition Tile) must be laid on a perfectly smooth surface. So if you intend to lay your new VCT floor over an existing floor, be certain that the surface is prepared properly to receive the tiles. Additionally, if you opt to use a backer board to level the surface, remember that doors will need to be adjusted accordingly.

What You’ll Need

• Wax stripper (if required)
• Grout leveler (if required)
• Vinyl embossing leveler (if required)
• Vinyl composition Tiles
• Adhesive for VCT
• Notched trowel (size as recommended by manufacturer)
• Utility knife

Step 1 – Floor Prep
Remove all finish carpentry (doors, doorframes, baseboards, etc.). If the existing floor is vinyl, thoroughly clean and strip polish and wax, then coat with vinyl embossing leveler to even out embossed design. To prepare existing VCT flooring, use a grout leveler over the floor. For an existing epoxy floor, sand the entire surface with a walk-behind sander, and apply a coat of floor preparation to seal and level, then one final sanding and cleaning.

Step 2 – Layout
If the room is a simple layout (square or rectangle), finding the center is just a matter of snapping a chalk line from the centers of opposing walls, forming a “+” on the floor. Where the lines intersect, is the exact center point of the room. Using 1 tile, darken the lines at the center with a pencil to assure perfect placement (lines will be 2-tile widths each direction). It is essential that the first tile be laid perfectly because every other tile lines up to it. Should you prefer a more elaborately VCT flooring design layout, transfer the tile layout to the floor with a pencil. The adhesive dries translucent and will allow you to see the marks.

Step 3 – Setting Tiles
Pour adhesive onto the floor. Spread adhesive over the entire floor with a trowel, notching the adhesive once desired thickness is achieved. Let adhesive dry. Tiles can be set when you can touch the adhesive and it is tacky, but not wet. When you can touch the adhesive with your finger coming up clean, its time to set the VCT flooring. Starting in the center carefully lay the first tile, with the corner even with one of the corners formed by the “+” in Step 1. You will not be able to move tiles once they are laid.

Step 4 – Cutting Tiles
After you have placed all whole tiles, you must make the cuts required to finish the room. For wall cuts, place the tile to be cut (be sure orientation is correct) on top of the tile that will be adjacent to it (first row from wall). Take another unused tile, line it up to the wall, and over the tile to be cut. Using this as your straight edge, score the VCT flooring tile where they overlap. Remove both tiles (one to be cut and overlapping guide tile) and snap strip off at scored line. It is best to NOT have glued the perimeter of the room until all cuts have been made. As you make your cuts, lay the tiles on their appropriate adjacent tile. After all cuts are completed, glue the perimeter, allow it to dry and then place tiles. To cut at openings (doorjambs, etc.), line the tile to be cut even with the wall, make a 1 inches scribe at 90 degree to the jamb, where it hits the tile. Keeping the same orientation, move tile around to inside the jamb, even with the adjacent tile, scribe a 1 inch mark 90 degree to where the jamb hits the tile. Use another uncut tile as a straight edge, scribe the depth of the second mark across to the first mark, and carefully snap strip (do not break off tail) the VCT flooring tile.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Renovate a Flood Damaged Terracotta Kitchen Floor

Earlier this year a customer from Gloucester got in touch with Tile Doctor through Home Services following a flood that had affected his Terracotta Kitchen floor. It’s difficult to tell from the pictures but the Terracotta floor was badly stained and marked following the flood, it now looked flat and dull and my customer wanted its appearance restored to the way it looked before.

I visited site to survey the tiles a recommend a was way to improve the appearance of the floor. Although now completely dry the floor was not looking its best, but there was nothing we couldn’t remedy. To resolve, I recommended deep cleaning the floor, stripping off any dirt and what was left of old sealers and then applying a new sealer. I gave them a formal quote which they could pass on to their insurance company and a not long after we received a call to say they were able to go ahead with the work.

Deep Cleaning a Terracotta Tiled Kitchen Floor

My first job was to prepare the floor for cleaning by removing the kickboards under the kitchen units and sweeping away any grit. Next the floor was deep cleaned using a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was left to soak into the Terracotta tiles for ten minutes. This gives time for the Pro-Clean to get to work breaking down the old sealers and dirt trapped in the pores of the tile. The Pro-Clean was then scrubbed into the tile using a black buffing pad fitted to a rotary machine.

After scrubbing the floor soiled cleaning solution was rinsed away with water and extracted from the floor using a wet vacuum. The tiles were then inspected to see if more work was required, there were a few areas I was not happy with, so the process was repeated where needed.

I then turned my attention to the grout lines which were really ingrained with dirt. I cleaned these with Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a stronger product that is really designed for removing stubborn sealers but is also a powerful cleaning agent in its own right. Again, I left the product to soak into the grout for ten minutes before scrubbing it by hand with a stiff brush to really get the grout clean.

After rinsing and extracting one more time the Terracotta and Grout were as clean as they could be, and I left the floor to dry off fully for four days. Terracotta is very porous, so it absorbs the water and takes longer to dry than other tiles.

Sealing a Terracotta Tiled Kitchen Floor

On my return I first checked the floor for moisture using a damp meter taking several readings around the floor to satisfy myself it was dry. Applying a sealer to a damp tile would lead to an inconsistent result so it’s always best to be sure.

Eight coats of sealer were needed to ensure the floor was fully sealed, again Terracotta is very porous, and it can really drink the sealer. For this floor I chose Tile Doctor Seal and Go which works really well on Terracotta it added a nice subtle shine to the tiles and will ensure the floor is protected going forward. It’s also water based so you don’t get a smell as it dries.

Afterwards the floor looked great and the customer was very happy. They are just hoping there will not be a repeat of the floods that caused the previous damage.

 

Source: Terracotta Floor Cleaning and Restoration in Gloucester