Flooring Information

You can get ceramic tile with art already on it, but you can also create your own works of ceramic tile art. The main problem you’ll find with ceramic tile art is that the paint can fade, wear off or simply run. This, of course, is if you do not take the time to seal the ceramic tile. Sealing ceramic tile art seems as if it should be easy, but you cannot seal it with the materials you find in stores for sealing ceramic. These chemicals include ingredients that are great to seal ceramic but will damage the artwork. Ceramic tiles are baked in a kiln in order to get the glazed look, but painted artwork does not have the same finish. The article that follows will show you not only how to seal ceramic tile art correctly but how to make your own sealer.

What You’ll Need

  • Mixing bowl
  • Linseed oil
  • Alcohol
  • Cotton swabs
  • Clean rags
  • Soft natural paintbrush

Step 1 – Make Sure the Art Is Dry
Before you even begin mixing up your home brew of ceramic tile art sealer, you need to make sure that the art is completely dry. If you try to apply the sealer to paint that is not completely dry, it will run or be wiped off the tile. It takes longer for paint to dry on ceramic tile than on most common painting surfaces, so take that into consideration. You also need to consider the humidity of the area you are working in. High levels of moisture will cause the paint not to set. Whatever the drying time is for the paint you are using, always double and even triple it to be certain it is set.

Step 2 – Using Alcohol
Alcohol is fast drying and can be used to set the paint on the ceramic tile just prior to applying the sealer. Alcohol can, however, damage paint, so it is important to test the alcohol on a very small area of the paint. Use a cotton swab to do this. If the paint dissolves, then use the alcohol very carefully. Otherwise, you can paint it on the tile as you would any other paint or sealer. Some kinds of paint can come off when you scrub it with alcohol. Prevent this by soaking a rag in alcohol and draping it over the tile. After several seconds, you can carefully remove the rag. The alcohol will dry in seconds and, in the process, will set and protect the paint.

Step 3 – Linseed oil
This type of oil is very safe on most paint products and also safe to use on glazed ceramic tile. Once the alcohol has dried, paint it on the tile over the art. Use a clean rag to dab up the oil but never scrub or wipe it off.

Step 4 – Make a Sealer
If this is a hobby you do often, then mixing your own sealer will prove beneficial. In a mixing bowl, pour in four parts of linseed oil. Thin the oil out with one part alcohol.



A floating floor can really spice up any kind of home design. Some even serve multi-purposes such as a small stage for live performances and the likes. However the floor will be used, it is necessary that the area where the floating floor would be installed first be inspected.

Ideal Locations for Floating Floors
Ideally, a floating floor must be installed in a sturdy and even space. If this is not the case in your set-up, you should search for ways to improve the location of your floating floor.

Preparations in Correcting Uneven Surfaces for Floating Floor
Decide on the space where you would be putting up your floating floor. If you are considering using wood, make sure that the area you would choose would be safe for such materials. As such, laying a wooden floating floor on soil would need more considerations to ensure the protection of the wood.

Measure the area to ascertain what materials you would be using. If you are laying floating floor on the ground, considering having dips filled up with soil. You could also have rising areas plowed prior to the installation of your floating floor.

Sanding and Filling
For concrete and other similar sub-floors or grounds, it might be best to allot a budget for sanding and filling. Get a level to determine the areas which you need to level. Evenly sand those areas that are a lot higher than the rest of the surface. Dust off all debris before measuring it up using your level. For dips, get concrete putty or other similar filler. Apply this to areas that need fillings. Let it dry completely before measuring it again. Sand the fills that has risen to more than the desire level

Installing a floating floor on an uneven surface could also be achieved by skipping all the above-mentioned steps. However, the task at hand would be trickier. Thoroughly clean the area where you would be building the floating floor. After that, measure the areas where there are depressions and rises. The “legs” of your floating floor should be made to fit such sections.

In this regard, you need to measure up each of the fills and rise to be able to adjust the sizes of your floating floor’s legs. Measuring and wood cutting are the most important steps here. Any miscalculation could lead you to the misfit of the floating floor’s legs to the surface. Also, remember that the materials you would be using for the floating floor’s legs should be the sturdiest. These parts are like foundations that would be tasked to carry most of the pressure to the floating floor.

After all the adjustments have been done, continue on attaching the floor boards of your floating floor. Drive down nails and screws next to each other to stop the boards from squeaking. Also, double check for surface impurities that would need sanding. Hammer down each nail to ensure that they don’t come loose. Apply varnish and paint as desired.



A plywood subfloor supports the finished floor on the joists. In areas with high humidity, which will also be hot areas, treating the plywood subfloor will help it last longer.

Wood is a porous substance. In high humidity areas, moisture will enter the plywood subfloor. Over time, it will cause the plywood to come apart and disintegrate. That will mean tearing up the entire floor to replace the subfloor, a lengthy and expensive process.

Where there is high humidity, there can also be mildew. Once the moisture collects in the wood, it can easily turn to mold. By treating the plywood subfloor before it’s laid, you stop moisture from entering the plywood, so it will last much longer.
Treating a plywood subfloor is a step most people forget or ignore, but it’s an important one. An investment of an hour and a few dollars can save a great deal of work later and also save health, as mold can cause illness.

When to Treat
For the best protection, treat the plywood subfloor after cutting but before you put it down. This means the cut edges will be treated, too, preventing moisture from entering any part of the plywood. Allow time for the treating agent to dry in the wood before laying the subfloor.



Floor joists are an important part of any floor. They help support the foundation and make the floor solid. Learning how to install floor joists properly is very important for your home.
  • When choosing boards to be the floor joists it’s important to use a high quality grade of wood as well as making sure that it is free from defects such as knots. This will ensure that the wood’s strength is at its full potential. Also when picking the wood you want to stick to 2×6, 2×8, or 2×10. Anything lower then that will not offer enough support.
  • When installing the floor joists you should lay them out every 16” which will be their spacing length.
  • Make sure that when you install the floor joists that they are against a bearing wall to help support them as time wears on them.
Important Facts for Installing Floor Joists
  • When installing the floor joists you have to make sure they are level and straight at all costs. If they are not they will fail.
  • If you install the joists with joist hangers double check to make sure that they are installed properly.



Solid bridging are the pieces that are put in between the floor joists so that they don’t twist and warp. Installing solid bridging is easy, and it’s a project that won’t take very long. Before you begin, make sure you have all of the materials you need to complete it.

Step 1: Measure out the distance from one floor joist to another. You will also have to measure how tall the floor joists are.
Step 2: Use your measurements to cut out squares of wood about 1” thick.
Step 3: Nail in the solid bridging at regular intervals into the floor joists so that they make a narrow bridge from one joist to another.
Step 4: Nail in the rest of the solid bridging to make adjacent parallel lines across the floor joists.

Spacing out Solid Bridging
Use a measuring tape to make sure you are placing the solid bridging in the right places. Sometimes people crisscross the bridging so that it is easier to install and a little more stable. Just make sure you put the piece an inch over from the other, and the piece following that should go an inch in the other direction. This way, even though they are not in the exact same spot, the solid bridging stays in a line.



Sloping floors are aesthetically unattractive and uncomfortable to stand and walk on. This problem can be solved with some simple steps.

1 – Foundation Repair
Inspect your foundation for any structural problems such as cracking or sinking. This type of problem will have to be resolved first. You will need to consult with a contractor for the best solution to your problem.

2 – Shim Installation
Shims can be positioned between the sub-floor and the joist. This should level out the floor of the room. Use a level to be sure the floor is sitting properly then nail the sub-floor through the shim and into the joist

3 – Self-Leveling Compound Application
Apply a primer to the sub-floor to make sure that the compound adheres to the sub-floor. Allow the primer to dry then apply the self-leveling compound. Begin at the lowest part of the floor. Carefully spread out the compound to create a flat, level floor.

4 – Floor Joist Replacement
Weak and poor-quality floor joist will not provide the necessary support to a sub-floor. Inspect your floor joists for any damage or weak areas. If you find any evidence of problematic joists, have them replaced.

5 – Sub-floor Replacement

Inspect the sub-floor from underneath for any evidence of sagging or damage. If you find any areas that are damaged, have them replaced. If possible, install a vapor barrier to prevent any further moisture damage.



Floor joists play an important role in a building’s foundation. But, due to a variety of reasons they may cause the floor to be uneven at certain places. Let us discuss what actions can be undertaken in order to avoid this, or when required solve such a problem.

It is important to bear in mind that wood will in time deteriorate due to wear and tear and moisture. So, it is important to primarily make sure that no water leaks or penetrates into the joists. Furthermore there should be an appropriate moisture barrier set in place.

Expansions and Contractions
Due to changes in temperature the wood will expand and contract. This will cause problems such as separation, crowning, cupping or buckling. These problems are common, and can be seen by edges being forced up or down. In turn, the floor will end up uneven in some places. In order to solve these problems the best thing to do is make sure that the temperature is rather level. A good way is to have a humidifier, and to regularly check any defects so as to take the necessary action. You should check for any sources of moisture or excessive dryness.

In order to keep the wood floor in its best condition and avoid unevenness problems, you should sand the floor to provide a smoother finish, especially in areas where there are splinters, lower areas or flaking finishes. Once you have finished sanding the floor, apply wood putty where required. When dry, apply a finish such as stain. Regularly check for similar defects so as to apply the necessary maintenance.



This article will explain how you can complete rubber tile installation. Rubber flooring needs minimal maintenance and creates a slightly supple feeling under your feet. Rubber tiles can withstand daily wear and tear, even in high-traffic areas like the garage. Rubber offers a less slippery surface than vinyl flooring.

What You’ll Need

  • Trowel
  • Leveling compound
  • Plywood bit
  • Kraft paper
  • Packaged rubber tiles
  • Chalk
  • Utility knife
  • Rubber tiling adhesive
  • Tape measure
  • Linoleum roller
  • Caulk

Step 1 – Prepare the Surface
Thoroughly clean the area you will be tiling. The surface should be dry and free of any lose debris. Scrub away all traces of paint, grease and oil with a trowel. Such substances can affect the bonding action of the adhesive. You can use leveling compounds to create a uniform concrete surface.

Step 2 – Prepare the Rubber Tiles
Remove the rubber tiles from their packaging. Ideally you should do this at least 2 days prior to laying the tiles. Place the rubber tiles in the room where you’ll complete the tile installation. The tiles will assume the same level of surface moisture and temperature as the floor. This aids the overall bonding process. Ensure that the room is well-ventilated during this period (but without any kind of water seepage).

Step 3 – Measure for the Tile Installation
You need to take measurements in two ways. First take the measurements for the floor with no vertical obstructions. Divide the room into four sections with chalk. Using the tape measure, mark the center of the room. Start laying tiles within each chalked section. Make sure to place them along the chalked lines. You should begin laying the tiles from the marked center. Count and note the number of tiles that fit in each section.
Secondly you need to take measurements for the floor surface that has vertical obstructions, like the floor area around the wall edges and doorjambs. Place a tile against the base of the vertical obstruction and let it overlap the nearby tile, previously placed. Using a utility knife, cut off the overlapping part of this tile. If the vertical obstructions have edges that you can’t easily cover with this method, use Kraft paper. Create a template of the problematic base of each vertical obstruction upon the Kraft paper. Trace the design of the template onto the tile. Now, cut along the traced lines with a utility knife.

Step 4 – Install the Tiles
You should start at the corner of the room that is most distant from the exit. Remove the tiles that you placed for measurement purposes. Pour an ample amount of tiling adhesive on the subfloor. Spread the adhesive with a trowel. Start placing the tiles over the adhesive-covered floor. Press down on the tiles to squeeze out excess adhesive. Wipe off the excess with a piece of cloth.

Step 5 – Finish the Tile Installation
The tiled surface may display some bumps due to air bubbles in the adhesive. You should level it with a linoleum roller. Let the floor and tiles bond properly through the night. On the next day, caulk any visible gaps between the vertical structures and the rubber floor tiling.



If you have a cement floor, you might want to think about adding a floating subfloor before the top covering. Cement can keep the floors cold because it does not retain heat. Plywood, or OSB board, does make a great subfloor over cement. Here are a few tips to help you install your floating subfloor.

Keep Cement Clean beore Laying Plywood Subfloor

If there is any type of dirt, debris, screws, nails, or even a liquid, it can cause major damage to the plywood subfloor. Make sure you thoroughly clean the cement floor before you attempt to add a subfloor.

Acclimate the Wood Before Installation

There is always a period of time when the wood needs to acclimate itself to the room it is going to be installed in before the actual installation. Some wood require more time than others, but letting the plywood sit in the room for at least 24 hours will keep it from shrinking and expanding enough to ruin your floor.

Check Moisture in Cement

Cement does retain some moisture for a long period of time. Check the moisture levels in the concrete before laying the floating subfloor. You many have to use a water barrier.

Lay Floating Subfloor

As you lay down the 1/2 inch plywood, or OSB, keep 1/8 inch of space between each sheet.



Installing floor insulation will save you money on heating and cooling costs. If you live in an older home and notice that the floors are usually cold, then that cold air is radiating into the room. Your heating costs will be much higher during the colder seasons. When you install floor insulation it will protect your floor from moisture, and keep the cold air from reaching the floor.

Installation of floor insulation is a very straightforward process. If the house is a new construction, or you are adding an addition, it is easily done before the subfloor goes down. If you live in an older home, then the process is a little trickier, but still easy to do.

Materials Needed

  • Insulation
  • Stapler
  • Utility Knife
  • Measuring Tape
  • Metal Insulation Brackets
  • Vapor Barrier
  • Gloves
  • Face Mask

Step One – Measure Floor
With your tape measure, determine how much floor insulation you will need. Measure the width and length of the room and multiply them together to give you the square footage of the room. Take this with you when you order the insulation. You will also want to determine the R-factor of the insulation. The R-factor is the amount of insulation your home has. The higher the number, the more efficient it is. Insulation is also sold in rolled batts. If you know how many square feet you need, then you can simply purchase the appropriate number of rolls.

Step Two – Install Insulation – New Construction
There are two ways to install the floor insulation. If you are in a new home that does not have any flooring down yet, you can lay the insulation in between the exposed joists. Starting at one end of the room, work your way to the other corner. Fold out the paper flaps along the side of the insulation and staple it to the joist. Staple the insulation every six inches or so. Lay down the water barrier over the insulation and staple to the joists.

Step Three – Install Insulation – Basement
In an older home the process is basically the same, but you will have to insulate below the floor in the basement or crawl space. Again, start in the corner of the room and unroll the insulation. You will have to life up the insulation in between the joists and staple. Place metal supports on the joists to help hold the insulation up. Continue until you have completed the entire floor.

If you are remodeling your room in the near future, it would be better to wait until you tear up the floor to add the floor insulation. Once you get to the subfloor, pry it up to expose the joists and lay the insulation as you would in the first example. Reinstall the subfloor over the vapor barrier and finish with your floor remodel. Now when you walk out onto the floor in the dead of winter your feet will be warmer because of the floor insulation.