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Linoleum tiles are an attractive choice of flooring for home use. The tiles are made from organic materials, which include linseed oil, limestone and sawdust. Pigments are also added to the mixture, which gives the tiles a uniform color throughout. The tiles are a good choice if you prefer natural products for your floor. You also have the opportunity to mix and match tiles to create your own unique style. A properly installed and well maintained linoleum tiled floor can last for several years in good condition. However, damages are still possible, which may leave you with broken or chipped tiles. Below is a useful guide to help you fix the damage.

What You’ll Need

  • Grease pencil
  • Matching linoleum tile
  • Soft-bristled brush
  • Box cutter
  • Chisel
  • Hammer
  • Pencil
  • Ruler
  • Thin cardboard
  • Scissors
  • Masking tape
  • Wood glue
  • Popsicle stick
  • Damp sponge
  • Large brick
  • Acrylic floor sealer
  • Paint roller

Step 1 – Inspect Floor
Carefully examine your tiles to identify those that are broken or chipped. Mark the damaged tiles with a grease pencil. It is easier to undertake repairs all at once. If the damage on the broken or chipped tiles isn’t extensive, proceed to Step 2. In cases where the breakage exceeds 2 inches or the tile is severely chipped, it is best to replace the entire tile.

Step 2 – Obtain Loose Tiles
Check whether you have any tiles that remained from the original installation. If unavailable, purchase a few tiles that match yours from a flooring vendor or hardware store. This allows you to create as close to a uniform appearance as you can.

Step 3 – Remove Damaged Portion
Draw a line around the area of tile you wish to remove. Use a box cutter to cut out the damaged tile. Detach the tile from the subfloor with the help of a chisel and hammer.

Step 4 – Clean the Subfloor
Clear out dust and fine debris from the subfloor with a brush. This leaves you with a clean surface, which facilitates effective attachment.

Step 5 – Cut out Replacement Tile
Create a stencil out of thin cardboard with the help of a pencil, ruler and pair of scissors. Attach the stencil onto a replacement tile with some masking tape. Use a box cutter to cut out the replacement portion.

Step 6 – Install New Piece
Spread a light coat of wood glue with the help of a popsicle stick onto the back of the replacement piece. Apply some glue along the sides of the piece as well. Fit the piece onto the subfloor. Press the tile firmly down so that it attaches well. If any glue oozes onto the surface, wipe away with a damp sponge.

Step 7 – Place a Weight
Place a large brick or weight on the tile. This facilitates proper adherence of the replacement piece onto the subfloor. Leave the brick in place for 24 hours.

Step 8 – Apply Floor Sealer
Remove the brick. Clear away fine debris with your brush. Use a paint roller to apply an acrylic floor sealer over the repaired tile.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Removing tile adhesive is not a difficult job to do. Many people remove the tile from their floors to get to the beautiful natural floor that lies beneath the tiles. What they don’t realize is the majority of the time linoleum is glued down when the tiles are installed. Even after removing the linoleum, you may have to do extra cleaning to remove the residue from the glue.

What You’ll Need

  • Hot water
  • Towels
  • Paint scraper
  • Floor sander
  • Heat gun
  • WD40
  • Rag
  • Goof-Off

Step 1 – Preparation
Using spare towels and rags, cover a big section of the floor. Pour boiling water on the towels and let it cool enough to handle. After about 10 or 15 minutes, use the towels to remove the adhesive.

Step 2 – Scrape
Scrape away old glue being careful not to scratch the hardwood surface. If you don’t want to go this route, you can rent a floor sander to use instead. This option will cost more money than just using rags, but is a lot less labor intensive.

Step 3 – Use Heat Gun
Often you will come across stubborn spots where you will find extremely difficult to remove the adhesive. These can be found mostly at the corners of the floor. In such a case, you can use a heat gun. You need to blow hot air on the stubborn spots which will loosen the glue. Then you can go back to the scraping method when excessive glue is removed.

Step 4 – Use Chemicals
If you still find areas where you are unable to remove the glue, then opt for chemical remover. Although, this is the last and less desired option to remove the adhesive. This should only be used on spots that could not be removed by the steps above. Keep in mind this last method could leave damaged spots on the floor.

Step 5 – Clean Surface
After you have removed the glue, you have to prepare the floor for the new flooring. In order to so sweep the floor and then mops it.

Removal Tips
Remember that most of the floor’s original finish will come off with the sanding and removing of the glue.
Be sure and take a look at the type of floor underneath the tiles so you can have the needed stain or finishing material to give the floor a nice finish.

Removing adhesive can take a while so make sure you have enough time to get the job accomplished.

After Removal Maintenance Tips:
Using Water: Hardwood can get water damaged so you can’t apply the same amount of water to the flooring as you did to the tiles.
Using a Vacuum: A vacuum can be used on the flooring to collect the dust but if you are afraid that this will scratch the floor. It is suggested to us a dust mop instead.

Touch Up: There are times when the flooring is going to need touch-ups. To do this you can use touch up sticks. For larger areas you can use small tubs of stain.

Before you decide that you want to return to the hardwoods flooring underneath your tile consider the work that it takes to maintain it.

 

Source: www.DoItYoursef.com

Proper care of your floor prevents damage, extends its life, and keeps it looking new for years. So how do you properly care for your flooring? Learn to prevent unnecessary dirt, grime, and damage, and regularly clean your floors with the proper solutions and methods.

What You’ll Need:

  • Vacuum
  • Warm water
  • Ivory liquid soap
  • Clean towels
  • Spray bottle
  • Nylon bristle brush
  • WD-40
  • Ammonia
  • Vinegar
  • Floor wax

Damage Prevention
If you enjoy going barefoot or even if you don’t, kick your shoes off at the door. Why remove your shoes? Well, if you have a rough board that needs smoothing you grab a sheet of sandpaper for the job. Guess what’s on the bottom of your shoes? Sand and dirt that will grind away at the surface of your flooring, causing them an early death.

A closer look at the bottoms of those shoes and you’ll also find oil, dirt, and heaven only knows how many tidbits of unknown substances. In cases like this, it’s a small wonder why your floor stubbornly refuses to come clean. Aim to wear only slippers or socks inside. The oil from the bottom of your feet can also dirty your flooring. Using socks and slippers can also keep your feet much cleaner at the same time.

Cleaning
Always vacuum or dust hard floor surfaces before mopping.

Linoleum floors generally require only warm water for cleaning, as most detergents won’t rinse clean and leave behind a sticky residue. That residue becomes a magnet, attracting dirt off the bottom of your shoes or slippers. It builds up, deteriorating the sealant and leaving you with the hard job of stripping and waxing.

If you find your floor requires a cleanser, use Ivory liquid dish soap. Fill your sink with suds, mop away, and then rinse with a clean towel. Ivory rinses clean so the sticky buildup never causes problems. Other detergents can be too harsh for the floor so stick to Ivory. You can also mix Ivory in a spray bottle of water as a floor pre-spray or all-purpose cleaner. It’s inexpensive and quite good.

Some linoleum floors have grooves so deep you can sink a submarine. Grab a nylon bristle brush, fill your sink with warm water, add a good squirt or two of Ivory dish soap, and scrub the floor. Other brushes might scratch your flooring so take extra caution when choosing the right one. Rinse again with a clean towel. Your floor should only need this deep cleaning twice a year or so.

Black heel marks? Not a pretty sight. To get rid of them, spray a little WD-40 on a towel and lightly rub. They should disappear without scrubbing. Rinse thoroughly with sudsy water or the floor might be slick.

Waxing
If your floors still don’t pass the white glove test, it may be time to strip and wax. Open the windows, turn on the fan, put on some marimba music, and prepare for a good workout. Use straight ammonia and a towel for this. Pour the ammonia in one area and spread around with a dishtowel, letting it set for 15 to 30 minutes. After 15 minutes treat the next area. Go back to the first spot and scrub with a nylon brush, and repeat until you finish the floor. Mop up the ammonia with a clean, damp terry towel. Then, rinse with 1/2 cup of vinegar per gallon of water. The vinegar will remove any lingering ammonia.

Good floor wax can be found at janitorial supply stores. You will pay more, but the finish lasts a long time without yellowing. Apply the wax with a clean dishtowel. Let the first coat dry for several hours before applying a second coat. (Do not machine wash a towel you have used to apply floor wax. The wax will stick to the side of the washer and can damage future loads of clothing.)

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Linoleum tiles are very useful in some areas of the house. They’re easy to clean and that can make them a good option where there will be muddy feet. You can bring something different to the way the linoleum tiles look on the floor. Most people lay tile in the traditional square pattern. That’s fine, but you can introduce something different to the design by laying the tile on the diagonal. Once you know how to do it, it’s not complex.

What You’ll Need:

  • Chalk line
  • Straight edge
  • Tape measure
  • Utility knife

Step 1 – Reference Lines
In most cases the room where you want to put the linoleum tiles will not be completely square. As the building settles the 90-degree angles can change. You can compensate for this, however.

Measure along one of the walls and mark the midpoint. After this, do the same on the other wall and snap a chalk line between the two midpoints. Do the same with the other two walls. Where the two lines intersect will be the middle of the room and the lines you’ve created will be your reference lines.

Step 2 – Working Outward
You have four separate lines on the floor in the room. Measure the distance of three of them going from the enter to the wall and make marks to divide them evenly into thirds.

Now you need to use your chalk line to connect the points you’ve made. They need to be connected both on the diagonal and also so they connect at right angles, also known as orthogonal.

Step 3 – Center
Having created what are really reference lines for laying linoleum tiles on the diagonal you now need to give yourself a starting point by having a reference line that runs diagonally from corner to corner across the center point of the room. This is know as the apex line. Snap a line from one corner to the center, then from the center out to the other corner to create the apex line.

Step 4 – Laying Tile
For laying the tile you need to go quarter by quarter within the room, although these quarters are like triangles and you’ll work from the peak to the base. Begin between the lines of the diagonals you’ve created and work your way through the quarter, using full tiles until there is no more room for full tiles.

To complete that quarter you’ll need to cut tiles to fit. Measure the space, mark on the tile with a pencil and then cut with your utility knife.

Step 5 – Remaining Tile
Go through quarter by quarter in the room, each time starting at the center and working outward. Once you’re familiar with the technique it will go quickly. If creating a patter on the diagonal linoleum tiles, pay close attention to be sure you maintain the design.

In each quarter you’ll need to cut tile to fit around the wall. Following these lines and reference point your floor will stay even and centered in the room to give a professional look to your work.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Linoleum tile is an inexpensive, waterproof, and easy to care for flooring option for many home remodel projects. Many home owners will elect to install linoleum floor because of the ease or use and maintenance.

Wide Variety
Linoleum tile is now available in a wide variety of different styles. Gone are the days of having a plain design on your floor. Now, linoleum is available to look like wood strips (that come in over 20 different wood varieties alone), marble flooring, natural stone, and ceramic tile. There are also plenty of color options available to match your room, or decorations.

Installation Options
As well as having several different styles to choose from, linoleum tile is also available with different installation options. You are probably most aware of the large sheets of linoleum tile that are available in rolls. These have to measured and cut at the flooring warehouse so exact measurements are important.

You can also find linoleum tile in small 12″ by 12″ tiles. They are easy to install, much like regular floor tiles with adhesive. Another option for installation is with a peel-and-stick type backing that already has the adhesive on the tile itself. You simply peel the backing away and press onto the floor.
 
 
Source: www.DoItYourself.com