This Edwardian tiled stone floor was installed in the hallway of a house in Richmond, Surrey. It had not been deep cleaned for a number of years and a number of layers of old sealer were visible causing a yellowing of the tile. The old sealant needed to be stripped off before cleaning could take place and leave the Edwardian floor in a state ready to receive a new seal.
Cleaning Edwardian Tiles
To remove the old sealer a dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a solvent based stripper was applied to the floor, left to dwell for a while and then steamed into the tile which helps to break up the old sealers. The tiles were then scrubbed using a rotary machine and a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a strong alkaline product and the residue pressure rinsed away. The soiled residue was then removed using a wet vacuum and the floor rinsed thoroughly.
Sealing Edwardian Tiles
After leaving the Edwardian floor for 24 hours to dry, we then applied seven coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go topical sealer. This not only gives the floor a high level of protection but it also enhances the contrast of the tiles and gives a nice shine,
Hopefully you can appreciate the difference from the photographs and how the appearance of the tiles now looks much fresher.
Source: Expert Edwardian and Victorian tile maintenance advice
A self leveling compound is a concrete type floor underlayment that is applied to subflooring prior to the installation of tile or wood. Using a self leveling compound is easier than other types of subfloor compounds because it will fill in low spots to make sure that a more complete coverage of the floor takes place. The best time to use a self leveling compound is in conditions that are not too humid or cold in order to allow the compound to set up properly and work as designed.
What Is Self Leveling Compound?
The self leveling compound is a type of quick setting concrete. It is mixed with water into a compound that has a watery consistency. Unlike concrete that is mixed to a consistency of toothpaste or peanut butter, self leveling compound has a consistency that is more like pea soup. This consistency allows you to pour it on the floor and apply it with little work or intervention once the mixture has been prepared.
Working in Too Hot a Room
If the temperature in the room where the self leveling compound is being poured is too hot, it may not properly cure. This may result in a soupy mess on the floor that does not properly level and may need to be cleaned up and poured again. This can be avoided by waiting until the temperatures in the room are less humid or cooler. You may consider using floor fans as a way to bring the temperature down and make the room easier to work in.
Working in Too Cold a Room
If the temperature in the room where the self leveling compound is being poured is too cold, the compound may freeze during the application. This will prevent it from reaching the lower areas of the floor and creating the self leveling effect that you desire. The resulting floor will not be level and you will again find yourself having to remove the material and starting over to achieve a more even or level pour. You can consider using floor heaters and turning up the heat in the room as a way to raise the temperature to a more moderate temperature climate.
How to Best Use Self Leveling Compound
When you purchase the self leveling compound for use on the subfloor prior to the laying of a new tile or wood floor, you should check with the manufacturer for any hints or directions on how best to use the material. Following the manufacturer’s advice will yield the best results when working with their brand of self leveling compound. Each manufacturer may have specific instructions or directions that should be followed in order to properly use their self leveling compound. Following this advice will help you avoid having to pour the floor again or waste any of the compound because of improper use.
If necessary, ask for advice when purchasing the self leveling compound from the retailer.
The drying time for self-leveling compound varies greatly from one package to the next. The easiest way to check this time would be to look at the installation instructions that accompanied the self-leveling compound. On average, you might have to wait anywhere from 1 to 6 hours for the compound to cure. You must give it ample time to dry completely so it lays flat and remains strong. To speed up drying time and avoid any possible problems, consider some of the tips below.
Leave It Overnight
If you have the chance, just let the self-leveling compound sit overnight. That way you won’t have to constantly check if it is dry or not, and the time will seemingly pass a lot faster.
Try to let everything dry in an area that isn’t too moist. Humidity will make the process take longer. Obviously you can’t control the weather, but try to keep as much moisture out of the area as possible.
Don’t blow a fan directly on the self-leveling compound, but you should use one in the room for air circulation. A clean ceiling fan will work fine, as will a fan that sits above the ground. Set it on low or medium speed.
This Milled Sandstone tiled floor was installed in the kitchen of a house in the village of Warsash on the south coast. The floor was looking washed out and lost most of its colour and the owner wanted it looking its best.
Cleaning a Sandstone Tiled Floor
The first job was to remove the kick boards from around base of the kitchen units a followed by the application of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean diluted with 10 parts warm water. This was left to soak into the stone and then worked in using a black scrubbing pad. This action gave the floor a good clean and the now dirty cleaning solution was removed using a wet vacuum, the floor was rinsed down with water and the process repeated in the areas where further attention was required until we were happy the tiles were clean. The final cleaning action was to wash down the tiles with clean water a final time to remove any cleaning product and neutralise the floor before the next step of sealing. The wet vacuum was used again to remove as much water from the floor as possible and we then left for the evening so the floor could fully dry overnight.
Sealing a Sandstone Tiled Floor
We came back the next day and tested the floor with a damp meter in a few different locations to make sure no dampness remained in the stone. The sandstone was dry so we proceeded to seal the floor with Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that occupies the pores in the stone preventing dirt from becoming ingrained there, it also as its name suggests brings out the colour in the stone and it certainly worked well on this floor and brought out the brown colours of the Sandstone, two coats were sufficient.
Source: Expert Sandstone Maintenance Advice
Joist hangers are an important part of the construction of the floor and deck. The hangers reinforce the strength of the joists, keeping the floor strong even as damage sets in over time. Installing masonry joist hangers is not a tasking job, and with the right materials and instructions, you can do it by yourself. At the same time, you need to be careful to avoid mistakes that would compromise the function of your joist hangers. One such mistake is using the wrong size of joist hanger for the joist. Always ensure that you get the right size of hanger guided by the size of the joist. Joist hangers should also not be re-used as this lowers the capacity of load they can support.
What You’ll Need
- Joist hangers
- Tape Measure
Step 1—Purchase Correct Materials
Purchasing the right size of joist hangers is the first step in strengthening your floor or deck. Joist hangers are available in different sizes depending on the size of joists. Nails are another important material that you should buy in the right size. Joist hangers usually come with the recommended size of nails that ensure added strength. The nails are long enough to attach to the frame behind the beam for added strength. Galvanized deck screws are unsuitable for joist hangers because they are not of the proper size and strength needed to support joist loads.
Step 2—Take Measurements
Use the tape measure to get the distance across the outer beam. This will help in locating the areas to install the joist hangers. Use the pencil and mark the spacing of the hangers on the beam, which should be spaced 16 inches apart and a ½-inch from the end of the beam.
Step 3—Install Hangers
Take the joist hangers one at a time and put them astride the marks on the beam so that the marks are at the middle of the hangers. Ensure that the hanger is well aligned onto the beam guided by the mark. Then take the hammer together with the nails and firmly fix the hangers onto the beam on both sides.
Step 4—Fix the Joist
Since joists usually vary in width, you need to measure the width of each joist first. Depending on the varying width, place each joist hanger at the right height to ensure that the joists are level. Take your joists and fit them into the joist hangers firmly by placing the end of the joists onto the hangers. Take the galvanized nails and use the hammer to drive the nails through the outer beam into the end of the joist.
Step 5—Fill Nail Holes
After securing all the joists with nails, fill in all the nail holes. Leaving the holes unfilled allows the weakening of the joist hangers.
When winter rolls around and your floors turn stone cold, use floor heating mats to take the chill out of going barefoot. Not only will you see heating bills reduced, but you will also get rid of dust and particles that traditional forced air systems spread around the house. There are many pros to electric floor heating mats. Floor mats work like a big electric blanket underfoot.
Adds additional insulation
Installation can be pricey
Sometimes cannot be retrofitted
In the past, it was difficult to install radiant flooring under existing wood or carpet. Usually, heated floor mats were added during construction. Older models often required cement to be installed with the electrical system, but not today. Most floor heating mats on the market are easily installed directly underneath carpet and floating wood.
Note, however, that certain types of tiled flooring will have to be replaced if you want to install heated floor mats. If you are doing a remodel, it would be the perfect time to add radiant flooring under your tile. For the rest of your house, installation should be quick and easy.
The grout on this Quarry tiled floor in the kitchen of a house in Livingston near Edinburgh was proving impossible to clean effectively and had now become badly stained with dirt and grime and had gone dark in the process making it obviously dirty when compared with the clean areas.
Cleaning Tile and Grout
The first step when cleaning grout is to apply a strong solution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a strong alkaline cleaning agent. The solution is mopped onto the tile and grout and then scrubbed in by hand with a stiff brush along the grout lines, Pro-Clean is also a good general tile cleaner so it worked well on the Quarry Tiles as well. The soiled cleaning solution was rinsed away with water and as much water as possible was removed using a wet vacuum. Next we left the floor to allow it to dry leaving a turbo air mover in help to speed up the process.
Sealing Quarry Tiles
When the floor was dry it was clear that the grout would never be clean enough to match with the areas that were still white so we agreed to apply a white epoxy Grout Colourant to resolve the problem. The group colourant is applied by hand and is painted onto the grout using a small brush; any excess is then wiped off the tile. Two coats were required on this floor.
The floor now looks like it has come back to life and as you can see all the grout now has a uniform colour and should stay that way for a long time as the added advantage of an epoxy grout colourant is it forms a barrier over the grout that will seal and protected it.
Source: Expert Grout Maintenance Advice