Linoleum Vs. Marmoleum Flooring

Marmoleum is the brand name of linoleum manufactured by Forbo-Nairn. Linoleum is the generic name for the natural flooring material made of linseed oil, cork dust, pine resin and wood flour. It is considered a ‘green’ renewable resource. This type of floor is hypoallergenic and long lasting.

Marmoleum
SMaRT certified Marmoleum has earned the coveted certification “Asthma & Allergy Friendly.” The homeowner that opts for Marmoleum will achieve at least one additional LEED’s (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) credit because it is considered by USGBC (U.S. Green Building Council) Credit Interpretation to be “innovation in design.” Made with all natural products, the sheet goods are installed with adhesives free of solvents, and the style Marmoleum Click needs no adhesive at all.

Linoleum
Linoleum, as a general industry standard, is not certified completely natural. The adhesives used are definitely not natural. Although the term linoleum indicates natural, Marmoleum is the only brand that is LEED certified. For the additional cost of the brand name, the homeowner will receive more LEEDS points. The higher your LEED’s score, the healthier and more green your home is. The ultimate green construction reduces energy and water usage in addition to using sustainable materials such as linoleum. There are also tax incentive programs to encourage green building.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Replace and Restore Old Victorian Hallway Tiles

Pictures below are from the restoration of Victorian Hallway Tiles that I carried out at a marvellous old property just south of Doncaster last year. The property was originally built and owed by the railways in fact its located metres away from the East Coast mainline which links Edinburgh with London and calls at places like Doncaster, York, and Newcastle.

The owner of this property was left a very old photograph by the previous owners showing two people stood by the front door and the floor tiles are just visible in the photograph.

Even though the house had been kept in great condition by the railways for well over one hundred years the large Victorian floor had unfortunately taken a hammering. In total around 130 damaged tiles would need removing and replacing with replicas. This would be a painstaking task but would make all the difference to the overall look of the floor.

Replacing Victorian Hallway Tiles

The current owner was keen to have the floor renovated and I was asked to do the work, old floors like these are a sought-after period feature and can add a lot of value to a property once restored. Fortunately, Victorian tiles are still popular today, and I was able to source replacements without too much trouble.

I started the restoration by removing the old cracked tiles and cleaning up the base. With this done I started the lengthy process of carefully cutting tiles to fit the original pattern and then fixing them in place with a modern adhesive.

Deep Cleaning Victorian Hallway Tiles

After leaving the tile adhesive to set overnight I came back the next day to deep clean the floor, by cleaning the old and new tiles together it will ensure the floor has a consistent appearance when finished.

Sometime in the past layers and layers of an old sealer had been applied to the floor, the sealer was flaking off and holding on to decades of dirt. To remove the old sealers, we used Remove and Go, it was sprayed on to the tiles and then left it to dwell and soak in for ten minutes.

The tiles were then scrubbed using a rotary floor buffer fitted with a 200-grit diamond pad which made short work of the old floor sealers. The floor was then treated with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean to clean the tiles further, again a diamond pad was used to go over the tiles.

Once happy the Victorian tiles were as clean as the could be it was time to give the floor an acid wash which would remove any old mineral deposits including grout smears. We also recommended this for old Victorian floors which do not have a damp-proof membrane installed and can suffer from white efflorescent salt deposits as moisture rises through the tile. To do this Tile Doctor Acid Gel was scrubbed into the to the floor again using a 200-grit burnishing pad to make the acid gel work hard. Afterwards we rinsed the floor several times removing the slurry with a wet vacuum. This kept the mess to a minimum and the floor was already looking great.

Sealing Victorian Hallway Tiles

The property was left for a few days to let the floor dry out completely and when I returned seal the floor my first job was to check the moisture readings in the floor with a damp meter. I needed to ensure it was as dry as possible before applying a sealer and in this case, I didn’t have to worry.

Next, I applied four coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which works by seeping into the pores of the tile protecting it from within. I consider this to be best choice for sealing old Victorian tiles like these as it does a nice job of improving colour and its fully breathable. Being breathable is important due to the lack of the damp proof membrane and will allow moisture to pass through the tile and sealer and not become trapped under the floor where it could spread to the walls and cause rising damp.

PS.. If you have ever wondered if you have applied enough sealer all you need to do is drop some water onto the floor, if the tile is sealed sufficiently the water will form a bubble on the surface.

 

Source: Tile Cleaning and Restoration Service in South Yorkshire

Install a Floating Cork Floor over Radiant Heat Floor

A floating cork floor is environmental-friendly and resilient. You can lay the floating cork floor over a radiant heat floor. Radiant heat flooring uses pipes or wires to carry hot water or electrical current through the floor, and thus radiate heat from the floor. Cork is an insulator made from natural materials, and installing it over a radiant heat floor helps slow down the time it takes for heat generation from your floor, once you turn on your heater system. This prevents the floor from getting too hot too suddenly. This type of flooring glues or snaps together, without being permanently affixed to your radiant heat floor. Installing the floating cork floor over radiant heat floor is not difficult. Simply follow the step-by-step instructions below.

What You’ll Need

• Floating cork floor
• Back saw
• Polyethylene sheet
• Tape
• Measuring tape
• Half spacers
• Hammer
• Tapping block
• Pry bar
• Miter divider

Step 1 – Check the Density of Floating Cork Floor
Check to make sure that the floating cork floor has a density of 28 pounds per cubic foot minimum. The higher this density number is the better, if you want stronger flooring.

Step 2 – Let the Flooring Settle
Let the floating cork floor settle in, prior to installation, by placing it into the room where you are going to install it for a minimum of 72 hours. Set the heating system to 75-degrees Fahrenheit, to heat the radiant floor. Keep the system turned on until you have finished installing the floating cork floor.

Step 3 – Trim Door Stop
Remove the baseboard. Take a plank of the floating cork floor, and lay it onto the threshold under the door, and up against the door stops. The door stop is the piece of molding which runs on the jamb vertically, and stops the door from opening the other way.
Trim the door stops using a back saw, taking due care not to cut into jambs. You will be installing the floating cork floor under the threshold. Trimming the door stops allows you to raise up the threshold until it reaches the bottom cut of the door stops you have just made. The plank will thus fit perfectly under the threshold. Remove the threshold.

Step 4 – Lay Polyethylene Sheet
Lay the polyethylene sheet over the radiant heat floor. It should cover the entire floor with an extra 3 inches going up the wall. Make the seams overlap by approximately 8 inches. Seal up the seams using tape. Laying the polyethylene sheet prevents moisture from building up between the floating cork floor and radiant heat floor. It also lessens squeaking sounds from the flooring.

Step 5 – Measure
Measure the distance starting from the longest wall without a door opening to the wall opposite. Subtract 1 inch from the number. This is the width to be covered by the floor. Then, divide this width by an individual plank’s width. This is how many planks to install. If the result is an uneven number, trim the first and the last planks equally, so that the floor is centered exactly.

Step 6 – Install the Floating Cork Floor
Set the half spacers placed against wall. Install the first row of plank with tongue facing towards the wall. Trim the tongue off with a back saw, to make the edge even, and fit against the half spacers. Install another plank of floating cork floor into the groove of the first row, and click them together. Do this for the other planks, as they will click and be locked into the planks in previous row. Before installing a new row, use a tapping block and hammer to ensure that every row is tight. Stagger the seams from one row to the next.
When installing the last row of planks, leave a ½ inch of space between the plank and the wall. Instead of using the tapping block, use a pry bar to go over the plank’s end and pull the tongue into the groove.

Step 7 – Finish the Floating Cork Floor
Replace the baseboard. Miter the ends of the baseboard at 45 degree angle with a miter divider, so that it will fit all corners. Do not nail the baseboards to floating cork floor, as the cork floor is prone to expansion and will destroy the baseboards. Nail them to the wall. Replace the threshold. It should fit nicely.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Pros and Cons of Cork Flooring In Your Bathroom

When looking at cork as a flooring option for your bathroom, it is important to consider the pros and cons of cork flooring. Cork flooring is both beautiful and durable, but its natural qualities can be causes for concern in a bathroom.

Pros
Cork flooring is naturally warm and feels delightful on a bare foot. Its flexible nature provides cushioning to that tile and hardwood do not. If the edges and surface are properly sealed with a water resistant sealant, the cork will be protected from any moisture absorption. Cork flooring is hypoallergenic and resistant to mold and mildew. It repels dust and is very easy to clean. This flooring option is available in a variety of natural and man-made colors.

Cons
Cork flooring is more expensive than linoleum. It can suffer indentation and cracking damage if an object is accidentally dropped on it. It can potentially absorb any water that is left on it, causing the cork to become warped and swollen. You should clean up any spills as soon as possible to prevent permanent damage to the floor. Over time, sunlight can discolor cork flooring. Windows in a bathroom with cork flooring will require proper covering to reduce the possibility of discoloration.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Remove Paint from Rubber Floor Tiles

Rubber floor tiles offer a level of floor protection for your home. Their waterproof and sturdy construction protects high foot traffic areas and carpets. Rubber floor tiles are still prone to being stained by things like paint.

What You’ll Need

• Cream Cleaner
• Scrubbing Brush
• Lint Free Cloth
• Warm Water
• Turpentine

Step 1 – Turpentine
Dampen the area with some turpentine to thin the paint. If the paint is dried in and oil based, the turpentine will thin the stain so you may use the scrubbing brush and cleaner to remove it later on.

Step 2 – Oil Based Stains
Dab the area with the turpentine and leave it to settle for a few moments. Paint and other oil stains only have a chance of being removed completely if you use a paint thinner and not water.

Step 3 – Scrubbing
Scrub the area with warm soapy water and the scrubbing brush until the stain has all but disappeared. Be cautious not to scrub too hard on the rubber pattern or surface, as you might damage the tiles.

Step 4 – Rinsing
Rinse the tiles with clean, warm water and dab dry with a cloth. Depending on the color of the paint stain you might find some residue. If this happens, just repeat with more turpentine until the stain has gone.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Paint Over Rubber Floor Tile

Rubber floor tile can become dull over time from wear. You can freshen your rubber tiles with a coat of paint. Be sure to use a paint designed for covering rubber. Visit your local hardware store and speak with a professional about painting rubber tile flooring.

What You’ll Need

• Vacuum machine
• Primer
• Paint
• A paint brush
• Polyurethane finish

Step 1 – Cleaning the Floor
Use your vacuum to remove any surface dirt and dust from the floor. Fill a bucket with warm water. Add some liquid detergent to the water. Mix the soap into the water. Immerse a sponge into the warm, soapy water. Squeeze out any excess liquid. Use the sponge to wash the floors. Allow the floors enough time to dry.

Step 2 – Applying the Primer
Use your paint brush to apply the primer to the floor. Begin in one corner of the room and work your way back to an exit. Be sure to use long, even strokes. Apply the primer in one direction. Allow the primer to dry thoroughly.

WARNING: Check the primer’s label for safety instructions and ingredients before you start applying it. You may have to wear safety clothing (including a face mask and safety glasses) and open nearby windows to give proper ventilation while applying the primer.

Step 3 – Applying the Paint
Use your paint brush to apply the paint over the primer. Begin in the same corner you used to start applying the primer. Apply the paint in long, even strokes, always working in the same direction. Allow the paint to dry completely. Apply a second coat of paint and allow it to dry. Apply a polyurethane finish over the paint.

 

Source: www.DoItYourself.com