Common Flooring Options

If you are considering changing the flooring in your home, you have many options to choose from. This article is about four of the most common options: linoleum, hardwood, ceramic tile and laminates.

Linoleum

Linoleum is a good choice if you’re on a tight budget. It is the least expensive of the options discussed here.

With proper care, linoleum can last for many years. To extend its life even longer, apply a bonding coat after installation. Linoleum is resistant to liquids, scratches, dirt and scuffs, making it easier to clean. Also, the aesthetic design is all the way through the linoleum, not just on the surface. Therefore, as it wears the design will continue to show.

Linoleum is made of renewable, all-natural ingredients including pine rosin, mineral fillers and ground cork dust.

On the down side, linoleum can be difficult to install, especially in sheets, due to its stiffness. It can be hard to measure and form around curved areas. It also has to be glued to the sub-floor, which can be messy.

Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tile is another popular choice in flooring, mainly because it looks nice and is durable. It is good for high traffic areas because it won’t wear as easily as linoleum. It is unlikely to crack or chip unless you drop something like a hammer on it. When properly taken care of it can last for 20 years or more.

Ceramic tile is easily maintained. It resists stains, liquid and dirt. Clean up is as easy as wiping the floor up with a rag or sweeping it. It doesn’t tend to attract or trap allergens like carpet, making it a good choice for allergy or asthma sufferers.

There are many different designs and sizes to choose from. The number of patterns you can create are endless.

Ceramic tile is also affordably priced. It ranges from $3-10 a tile. However, it can sometimes be found on sale for less than a dollar per tile. There are also premium tiles that sell at much higher prices.

Best of all, installing ceramic tile can raise the value of your home.

On the downside, the hardness of ceramic tile can make it uncomfortable to stand on for long periods of time. It can cause injury if you fall on it and if you drop something fragile it is almost sure to break.

Walking barefoot on ceramic can sometimes be uncomfortable because it feels colder than other types of flooring.

Installing ceramic tile is a hard job. Tile is very heavy and has to be placed carefully in order to look good. Each tile affects the next, so if one is crooked or off by a fraction of an inch, by the time it’s done it may look awful.

Hardwood

The most popular type of flooring is hardwood. Like ceramic tile, hardwood floors also add value to your home.

Hardwood gives any home an elegant look and feel. Wood floors look good with any décor. There are several finishes to choose from including cherry, walnut and oak; and if you want to change them, they can be refinished.

Wood floors are easy to maintain. They can last more than 100 years with proper care. Cleaning consists of sweeping and washing with wood cleaner.

There are drawbacks, though. They can be expensive to install — anywhere from $3-12 per square foot. Add labor to that, and the price can skyrocket. A homeowner can do it himself, but it difficult to install.

If your wood flooring get scratches, scuffs or gouges, it may need refinishing. This can be a problem in particularly high traffic areas. While refinishing can be done by a DIYer, it creates a lot of dust and fumes that they may not want to deal with.

Wood floors can also be quite noisy, either from the sound of your shoes hitting the floor as you walk, or because they tend to squeak as they become older and loosen up.

If you decide to go with hardwood flooring, there are several types to choose from. It comes in various colors and grains, as well as hardness.

Some of the softer hardwood options are pine, fir and birch. Pine is light in color with fine, straight or wavy grain. It may get darker or become yellow as it ages. Fir has a prominent grain and uniform texture. The heartwood (the older, central wood of trees) of birch is light brown or red. The sapwood (the younger, outer layer of trees) is light colored. Like pine, the grains can be straight or wavy.

Oak, maple and ash are some of the harder woods. Oak is the wood most used in flooring and can range in color from honey, with a slight pink tint, to a dark amber. Oak grain is dark, fine and can be straight or wavy. If it is cut at a certain angle it can appear to have a metallic flake effect. Maple has a fine grain in many patterns from streaks to a rare bird’s eye pattern. The color of maple will mellow with light and air exposure over time. Ash has a light texture, prominent grain and a white to light brown color.

Laminate

Laminate can realistically imitate the appearance of wood, tile or stone. It’s inexpensive and is simple to install because it is a floating floor, meaning that it is not attached to the subfloor. It resists stains, is easy to care for and does not contain any allergens.

On the downside, laminate may only last 15 to 30 years because restoring it is not an option. If the wrong type of underlayment is used it may have a hollow sound when you walk across it. It can also be cold and slippery, although manufacturers have produced a more slip resistant type of laminate. Unlike ceramic tile, laminate flooring does not add value to your home.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Common Flooring Options

If you are considering changing the flooring in your home, you have many options to choose from. This article is about four of the most common options: linoleum, hardwood, ceramic tile and laminates.

Linoleum

Linoleum is a good choice if you’re on a tight budget. It is the least expensive of the options discussed here.

With proper care, linoleum can last for many years. To extend its life even longer, apply a bonding coat after installation. Linoleum is resistant to liquids, scratches, dirt and scuffs, making it easier to clean. Also, the aesthetic design is all the way through the linoleum, not just on the surface. Therefore, as it wears the design will continue to show.

Linoleum is made of renewable, all-natural ingredients including pine rosin, mineral fillers and ground cork dust.

On the down side, linoleum can be difficult to install, especially in sheets, due to its stiffness. It can be hard to measure and form around curved areas. It also has to be glued to the sub-floor, which can be messy.

Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tile is another popular choice in flooring, mainly because it looks nice and is durable. It is good for high traffic areas because it won’t wear as easily as linoleum. It is unlikely to crack or chip unless you drop something like a hammer on it. When properly taken care of it can last for 20 years or more.

Ceramic tile is easily maintained. It resists stains, liquid and dirt. Clean up is as easy as wiping the floor up with a rag or sweeping it. It doesn’t tend to attract or trap allergens like carpet, making it a good choice for allergy or asthma sufferers.

There are many different designs and sizes to choose from. The number of patterns you can create are endless.

Ceramic tile is also affordably priced. However, it can sometimes be found on sale for less than a quid per tile. There are also premium tiles that sell at much higher prices.

Best of all, installing ceramic tile can raise the value of your home.

On the downside, the hardness of ceramic tile can make it uncomfortable to stand on for long periods of time. It can cause injury if you fall on it and if you drop something fragile it is almost sure to break.

Walking barefoot on ceramic can sometimes be uncomfortable because it feels colder than other types of flooring.

Installing ceramic tile is a hard job. Tile is very heavy and has to be placed carefully in order to look good. Each tile affects the next, so if one is crooked or off by a fraction of an inch, by the time it’s done it may look awful.

Hardwood

The most popular type of flooring is hardwood. Like ceramic tile, hardwood floors also add value to your home.

Hardwood gives any home an elegant look and feel. Wood floors look good with any décor. There are several finishes to choose from including cherry, walnut and oak; and if you want to change them, they can be refinished.

Wood floors are easy to maintain. They can last more than 100 years with proper care. Cleaning consists of sweeping and washing with wood cleaner.

There are drawbacks, though. They can be expensive to install — anywhere from $3-12 per square foot. Add labor to that, and the price can skyrocket. A homeowner can do it himself, but it difficult to install.

If your wood flooring get scratches, scuffs or gouges, it may need refinishing. This can be a problem in particularly high traffic areas. While refinishing can be done by a DIYer, it creates a lot of dust and fumes that they may not want to deal with.

Wood floors can also be quite noisy, either from the sound of your shoes hitting the floor as you walk, or because they tend to squeak as they become older and loosen up.

If you decide to go with hardwood flooring, there are several types to choose from. It comes in various colors and grains, as well as hardness.

Some of the softer hardwood options are pine, fir and birch. Pine is light in color with fine, straight or wavy grain. It may get darker or become yellow as it ages. Fir has a prominent grain and uniform texture. The heartwood (the older, central wood of trees) of birch is light brown or red. The sapwood (the younger, outer layer of trees) is light colored. Like pine, the grains can be straight or wavy.

Oak, maple and ash are some of the harder woods. Oak is the wood most used in flooring and can range in color from honey, with a slight pink tint, to a dark amber. Oak grain is dark, fine and can be straight or wavy. If it is cut at a certain angle it can appear to have a metallic flake effect. Maple has a fine grain in many patterns from streaks to a rare bird’s eye pattern. The color of maple will mellow with light and air exposure over time. Ash has a light texture, prominent grain and a white to light brown color.

Laminate

Laminate can realistically imitate the appearance of wood, tile or stone. It’s inexpensive and is simple to install because it is a floating floor, meaning that it is not attached to the subfloor. It resists stains, is easy to care for and does not contain any allergens.

On the downside, laminate may only last 15 to 30 years because restoring it is not an option. If the wrong type of underlayment is used it may have a hollow sound when you walk across it. It can also be cold and slippery, although manufacturers have produced a more slip resistant type of laminate. Unlike ceramic tile, laminate flooring does not add value to your home.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How To Choose Playroom Flooring

Your playroom flooring choice will play a big role in how much your children enjoy their playroom. There are many different types of kid-friendly flooring options.

Foam Tiles

Foam tiles are great for playrooms. They are soft and won’t cause carpet burns if your children play on the floor. They are also easy to clean and replace should one be stained or torn. Foam tiles are available in variety of colors, from bright primary colors to laminate that looks like wood. Some even have numbers and letters of the alphabet on each panel.

This flooring is lightweight, made of interlocking pieces that can be installed over existing flooring with very little effort. Best of all, foam tile flooring is very cheap!

Carpet Tiles

If your children are a little older, carpet tiles may be a better choice. They can make a room seem more mature, but they are still simple to replace in case of spills. The tiles are fairly inexpensive and can be placed over any hard surface.

The downside to the carpet tiles is the actual material. If your kids spend a lot of time on the floor, the carpet can become irritating to their skin.

Linoleum

Linoleum flooring is easy to clean, but can be hard on your kids. If your kids are older, or they have interests in art, then linoleum may be a good option. Though it is difficult to replace, it is cheap to install and very easy to clean, especially compared to more absorbent or fabric materials.

You should not use any kind of slick surface for kids just learning to walk or toddlers who are still wobbly. It should also not be used if your kids have a habit of running around. Linoleum is really best for rooms used by kids older than 8.

Low Nap Carpet

If you like the look of carpet and want to keep it consistent throughout your home, look for low nap carpet options for your playroom. They are easier on your children if they spend time on the floor.

Low nap carpets aren’t completely stain-resistant, but are much easier to clean if something spills. They are usually made to be water-resistant. You can vacuum them as you would any other carpets.

Throw Rugs

If you don’t want to install a whole new floor in an established room, consider using some inexpensive throw rugs instead. Put them over non-slip mats, and remember that kids can be messy. Choose machine washable rugs or very inexpensive styles that can be easily replaced.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

Free Listed Building Floor Tile Restoration Advice from Bedford Expert

The owner of this property in Bedford was convinced little could be done to restore the appearance of these Kitchen Quarry tiles at the best thing to do would be to cover them up, however as the building was Grade II listed thought it would be best to get a professional opinion first and I was asked to take a look.

I went over to survey the floor and could see that over the years pits had developed in the surface of the tile which had trapped dirt resulting in black staining. In my analysis I thought we could certainly improve their appearance but hesitated at promising the world as even I had not seen a quarry tile this badly damaged. However the client was happy with the quotation and the request was ‘Do what you can!’

Cleaning Grubby 200-Year-Old Kitchen Quarry Tiles

I could see this floor was going to be a challenge so after protecting all the skirting boards, kitchen units and appliances I set about soaking the tiles in a strong cocktail of Tile Doctor Remove and Go with Nanotech HBU, HBU stands for Heavy Build-Up so quite appropriate I thought.

The next step was to run over the tiles with a set of burnishing pads of different grades which are encrusted with industrial diamonds. It took more than one attempt at this process but the abrasive pads had the desired effect and eventually revealed the beautiful quarry flooring below. The pads are effective on the tiles but the grout sits a little lower and so to reach these a stiff brush was scrubbed into the grout by hand where needed.

To remove the dirt that was released from the cleaning process and further clean the tiles I used an extraction tool that’s powered from a large compressor that sits in my van. This forces hot water under pressure onto the tiled floor whilst simultaneously extracting the dirty water back to a separate tank using a vacuum. It’s an amazing tool that is very effective however you do need to have the van parked close the house due to a limitation on the hose lengths.

With the tiles now clean and rinsed with water the floor was dried as much as possible with a wet vacuum and left to dry for a couple of days.

Sealing 200-Year-Old Kitchen Quarry Tiles

On my return I first tested the floor with a damp meter to ensure it was dry; all was well so I able to move onto applying a sealer that would further enhance the appearance of the Quarry tiles and add protection.

Given the age of this floor I decided to use a modern fully breathable product and selected Tile Doctor X-Tra Seal which work by occupying the pores of the tile, improving colour, and preventing dirt from becoming ingrained there.

The client was in fact over the moon with the results and given the floor was 200 years old I even impressed myself. For me, even after having done this work for over 30 years it still provided a sense of achievement, a perfect combination of experience coupled with modern chemicals, machinery and working methods.

Source: Quarry Tile Cleaning, Restoration and Sealing Service in Bedford Bedfordshire

Birmingham Expert Details the Restoration of a Quarry Tiled Floor in Stourbridge

This customer from the historic West Midland’s town of Stourbridge contacted me about their living room floor which was laid with Quarry tiles; however, one area which I suspect may have originally been a fireplace had been tiled with pale ceramic Pink tiles. These would need to be removed and replaced with matching quarry tiles if the floor was to have a consistent appearance.

Whilst surveying the floor I conducted a test clean on a section of Quarry tiles which came up well and I discussed sourcing matching replacements with the owner. I knew of a reclamation yard local close to the customer that I’ve previously used, he suggested getting his own replacements from there which I was happy with and the work was booked in.

Repairing and Cleaning a Quarry Tiled Floor

On arrival I looked at the reclaimed tiles the owner had sourced and noticed they were all approx. 5mm larger than the original tiles. So, before doing anything else I had to cut them all to size with my wet tile cutter. This is messy work with quarry tiles as they create an orange slurry when cut, if you’re not careful you’ll end up looking like an Oompa Loompa after cutting them!

Next I had to remove the Pink Ceramic tiles and dig into the area underneath to ensure the thicker Quarry tiles would be level with the surface of the existing floor. Once the debris had been cleared, I was then able to apply a self-levelling compound to bring the sub-floor up to the required level. The levelling compound was left to dry off overnight and I returned the next day to fit the cut tiles and grout them in after the adhesive had dried.

The next day with the replacement tiles set I was able to clean the whole floor with Tile Doctor Remove & Go which was allowed to soak in for a while and then topped up so not to dry out. I then used a silicon carbide brush fitted to a weighted rotary machine to scrub the floor and loosen all the dirt. Next job was to run a stiff brush along the grout lines to get them clean as well, before rinsing and extracting the dirt with a portable Airflex Pro wet vacuum. I use a low psi so as not to apply too much water.

The floor was then towelled off before starting the last part of the cleaning process which involves treating the tiles with an acid-rinse using a dilution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up. This is an acidic product that can remove mineral staining and will also counter any alkaline salt deposits in the pores of the tile that could surface as the floor dries.

The floor was then rinsed and towel dried as before but this time I left a couple of floor fans in place to assist with the drying whilst I packed away the machinery.

Sealing a Quarry Tiled Floor

After an hour I applied a single coat of Tile Doctor Stone Oil, I find that this helps bring the colour of the Quary tile, aids drying and minimises any efflorescence salts coming through overnight.

I returned next day to fully seal the floor. The floor was old with no damp proof membrane installed and had shown signs of dampness In the past. Because of this I recommended using Tile Doctor X-Tra seal to seal the floor which is fully breathable sealer and will cope well with any damp issues. Additionally, this applied with the stone oil adds a nice slight sheen to the floor which really lifts its appearance.

The deep clean and new sealer really helped blend in the replacement tiles with the original and once complete my customer was very happy with the transformation. Before leaving we discussed aftercare and I left them a complimentary bottle of Neutral Tile Cleaner to maintain the tiles going forward. This is a pH neutral product that is safe to use on sealed surfaces and won’t prematurely erode the sealer like many stronger tile cleaners you will find in supermarkets.

Source: Quarry Tile Cleaning, Restoration and Sealing Service in Stourbridge

Repairing A Cracked Garage Floor

If the cement in your garage floor has cracked, the imperfection may not just look unsightly, but can also cause a safety hazard and eventually lead to greater problems if not repaired correctly. Investigating the cause of the crack and using the right technique to address it, however, involves only a simple do-it-yourself project.

What You’ll Need:

• Regular Cement or Latex Cement
• Water
• 5 Gallon Bucket
• Putty Knife
• Plastic Sheeting or A Tarpaulin
• Eye Protection

Consider the Underlying Cause

Before attempting the repair job, consider the underlying cause of the crack to prevent future damage. There is little point repairing the crack if the floor is going to open up again in a couple of months’ time. For example, large trees near your garage may have roots that reach under the floor, disturbing the cement and causing it to crack.

Another possible cause of a crack can be standing water. Water is a powerful force, and if it is allowed to freeze, the resulting ice expands and widens any tiny crack it has seeped into, accelerating damage to a concrete floor. Another possibility is a poorly constructed foundation. If the garage is not standing on a sound foundation, the structure as a whole could be at risk, and the cement garage floor crack could be an early warning sign of deeper problems.

Clean the Area to Assess the Damage

To assess the damage, sweep the garage floor and remove any debris and loose cement with a wire brush. If your cement garage floor is stained with oil or grease, clean it with a solution of Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) and water, mixed in quantities suggested in the manufacturer’s instructions. Take care to protect your eyes and skin if you use this product.

Repairing Small Cracks

To repair a small crack in a cement garage floor, use regular cement. Mix the powder with water to form a paste (about the same consistency as toothpaste). Apply this to the crack with a putty knife, and smooth the surface off to be level with the rest of the floor. Let the repaired area dry a little, then cover it with a plastic sheet or tarpaulin. If the cement dries too quickly, it risks cracking again, so sprinkle the area with a few drops of water every day until the surface is perfect.

Repairing Larger Cracks

If the crack in your cement garage floor is bigger than a hairline, you will need a more advanced product–latex cement. This product is ideal because it expands and contracts with the temperature and humidity, and won’t lead to further problems. Latex cement comes in straightforward kits that are easy for the do-it-yourselfer to apply. Simply mix the latex and cement together, then apply in layers to the crack, leaving a few minutes in between each layer if necessary. Finish the job as you would any normal cement by leveling it to the rest of the floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Paint a Parquet Floor

Some people may think that painting a parquet floor is sacrilege. But if your floors are in bad shape and don’t have another sanding in them, or you just want a new and different look, painting parquet floors is an easier alternative to refinishing. This article will walk you step by step through the painting process to make sure that you have amazing results.

What You’ll Need:

• Floor and porch paint
• Primer (tinted, depending on your color choice)
• Paintbrushes
• Paint rollers
• Polyurethane top coat
• Wood filler
• Sandpaper

Step 1- Fill in Holes

The first thing that you need to do is fill in any gashes or holes in the wood. The paint, no matter what color it is, will make the imperfections in the wood stand out. You can buy wood filler at any home improvement store. You should also fill in any gaps between the pieces of wood that the wood filler can’t with extra wood cut to fit. The wood will not have to match exactly since we will be painting over everything. After you finish adding the wood filler, sand down the pieces you filled and then wash the floor completely. Make sure that there is no dust or hair anywhere, or it will stick to the paint.

Step 2- Primer

The next step you need to do is apply the primer. Using brushes, paint the edges of the room first, and then come in with a paint roller to finish the rest. Make sure you start in the furthest corner of the room and work your way out. That way, you won’t paint yourself into a corner. If you are painting the floor a dark color, you should invest in tinted primer to ensure the best coverage. If you are painting the floor a light color, be aware that it will show dirt very easily and need constant cleaning and touch-ups. Two coats of primer is sufficient. Follow the manufacturers directions for drying time.

Step 3- Paint

Now it is time to paint. Just like how you applied the primer, start with a brush around the edges and fill in with a paint roller. As another option, you can add decorative touches by painting patterns on the floor, or adding stenciling. This will give the floor the appearance of the decorative parquet floors that were introduced in the 17th century. Apply the first coat of paint, let it dry, and then apply a second coat of paint. Make sure that everything is covered well. If it isn’t, add another coat of paint.

Step 4- Top Coat

Your floor will take a beating from being constantly walked on, so to protect your new painted parquet floor you need to cover it will several layers of Polyurethane top coat. The top coat can be applied much like the paint and primer, and you should do at least three coats to make sure that the paint is completely protected. As soon as the last layer of top coat is dry, you are finished.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

How to Maintain Terrazzo Flooring by Stourbridge Flooring Expert

It is tricky to tell from the photos but this Terrazzo tiled floor at a property in Stourbridge was stained with various contaminates and the owner has decided to call us in to get it cleaned. Stourbridge is a small market town in the West Midlands about 20 miles north of my base in Worcester and once famous for its glass making.

To renovate Terrazzo, you ned to understand that it’s made up of thousands of pieces of crushed stone including marble, so you need to treat it like a stone floor and use a set of burnishing pads to grind off the dirt, old sealers and bring up the polish. Our client was delighted to hear that the floor could be restored and that we would be able to improve the staining and likely remove it. They were happy to go ahead with our quotation and we arranged to complete the work later in the month.

Cleaning a Terrazzo Tiled Hallway Floor

On arrival work began by taping up the skirting boards and surrounding wood trims to ensure they were protected. To renovate the Terrazzo, no chemical products would be needed for the cleaning, just a selection of burnishing pads starting with a very coarse 100-grit 17-inch diamond encrusted burnishing pad. The coarse pads break out the deepest stains, removing dirt and old sealers and are passed over each tile four times. Water is used to lubricate the process and it isn’t long before this turn into a dark slurry. Once done the floor is rinsed with a little more water and the slurry extracted with a wet vacuum.

This process was repeated with the 200, 400, 800, 1500-grit pads. After a final rinse the last pad in the sequence which is a 3000-grit pad is applied dry with only a little water sprayed onto to the floor. This last pad is a polishing pad that adds a slight shine to the Terrazzo.

Sealing a Terrazzo Tiled Hallway Floor

Due to the fact the cleaning process involved minimal amounts of water and the last pad is applied dry the stone was dry in no time and therefore ready for sealing. For sealing I had selected Tile Doctor Colour Grow which met the owners’ requirements and adds a durable protection which is great for areas such as hallways that experience a lot of foot traffic.

Three coats were applied allowing each one to dry before applying the next. All stains had been removed and the natural colours in the crushed stone were improved by the sealer which has a colour enhancing formula. The floor looked great, and the client was very happy with the work we had carried out.

For aftercare on a floor like this I recommended using Tile Doctor Stone Soap which we usually use on polished stone. It’s a mild cleaner with a neutral pH which is ideal for sealed stone and will also help add a slight patina.

Source: Stone Floor Cleaning, Polishing and Sealing Service in Stourbridge Worcestershire

Applying Polyurethane to Hardwood Flooring

Although applying polyurethane to a hardwood floor can be a difficult and frustrating challenge if you’re inexperienced with this product, with a set of good instructions and the right tools and materials, you should be able to successfully complete the process on your own.

The amount of polyurethane you’ll need will depend on the surface area you want to cover. You’ll find this coverage information on the product you choose.

What You’ll Need:

• Exhaust fan
• Masking tape
• Orbital floor sander
• Shop vacuum
• Mop
• Organic vapor respirator
• Split-flex tubing
• Lamb’s wool applicator
• 120-grit sandpaper
• 150-grit sandpaper
• Pole sander
• Dust mask
• Eye protection
• Proper respirator
• Adequate ventilation

Preparation

Before applying your product, you’ll need to prepare. Here are five things you should do.

1. Urethane Fumes
   Get rid of them. This is critical. Use a window fan when applying the product and be sure to open as many windows as possible to get proper ventilation.
   
2. Floor Preparation
   To avoid getting unwanted urethane on your baseboards, you will need to apply masking tape along the floor or just remove them while applying the coating.
   
   Strip the floor of any old coating by sanding it with an orbital floor sander. If the floor is new you may need to scuff sand it before applying your product as well.
   
3. Clean
   Vacuum all dust on the floor remaining from sanding and then clean the rest of the floor to remove any dirt or debris.
   
4. Respirator
   Wear an organic vapor respirator while in the room where the urethane is being applied—and even for a day or two afterward if you’re going to spend extended time in the room.
   
5. Keeping the Extension Cord Off the Floor
   When applying your product and using a fan it is important that you keep the fan’s AC cord off the floor you are applying coating to. A good way to do this is to cut some split-flex tubing into short pieces and screw them into wall studs. Then insert the extension cord into the slit in the tubing.
   
   Once you’ve finished preparations, it’s time to spread the coating on the floor.

Applying the Urethane

Apply the polyurethane with a lamb’s wool applicator. Start with a three-foot-wide strip, brushing with the grain and using a mop like a push broom to back-brush the urethane (back-brushing means to move the mop from the wet edge back into the wet finish). If you stab the brush into the finish and then move it, you’ll see a mark where the brush landed. You might still see tiny—almost imperceptible—brush marks where your brush first touches and then is lifted from the floor. It is nearly impossible to apply urethane without leaving these unless you can find a way to brush completely across the room in one stroke. However, these tiny marks will rarely be noticed.

After each of the first three coats dries, scuff-sand the floor with 120-grit sandpaper on a pole sander. Clean any debris before continuing to the next coat, and then after the fourth and final coat, allow the urethane to dry completely. Typically, depending on the temperature and humidity, it takes about 72 hours for the urethane to fully cure.

When you’re finished, if you’ve followed these rules, you should have a nice looking finish that will protect the floor from moisture and from becoming dull.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com